- 1087 S*^ 

.D32 

:opy 1 



BRITISH COLUMBIA ; 



ITS 



Condition and Prospects, 



iOil, i&iW^Wl 



AND 



MINERAL RESOURCES, 



CONSIDERED. 



By henry DeGROOT 



SAN FRANCISCO : 

Printed at the Alta California Job Office, 124 Sacramento street, up stairs, 

1859. 






PREFACE. 



The contents of the following pages, were origiaally published in the columns of the 
Daily Alia California, where they appeared in a series of articles prepared for that paper. 
And although they have thus obtained a vast publicity, the writer has been encouraged to 
think it might serve a useful purpose, to present them in a collected shape, as furnishing in a 
narrow compass, the information most desired by the general reader, touching the country of 
which they treat. The proximity of our State to the gold fields of British Columbia, notwith- 
etanding their unhappy experience, naturally attracts the attention of our people that way ; 
and it was with a view to placing before them the most recent and reliable intelligence from 
that quarter, that the writer engaged in the humble work in question. It was for this, and 
not because of their literary merit, he has been led to collect these fugitive pieces and present 
them in their present more pretentious form. 



f' 



0^1 



^^-u 



BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



Having spent the greater part of the past 
8even months traveling through the interior of 
British Columbia, in the capacity of newspaper 
correspondent, the writer has since his return 
been frequently applied to for information 
touching that region, by parties desirous of 
emigrating thither, or by others willing to can- 
vass the inducements for doing so. As a means 
of answering those inquiries, and embodying 
the latest authentic intelligence from a quarter 
which, despite their recent disappointments, has 
not ceased to interest our people, he has 
determined to publish a short series of articles 
on the soil, climate and natural resources of 
that country, selecting as the medium the 
columns of our oldest and most widely ex- 
tended journal. The w-riter engages in this 
task the more readily from the fact that he 
has, hitherto, found little inducement to pub- 
lish any considerable portion of the copious 
notes kept while journeying over Vancouver's 
Island and the main land ; and for the further 
reason, that his views as heretofore exhibited 
are lacking in entircness, several lengthy 
letters designed for publication having failed 
of that end through the uncertain modes of 
transmission incident to the remote localities 
where they were written. 

This purpose, then, of placing before the 
public the information gleaned during his 
travels in a summary and consecutive shape, 
will form the author's excuse should certain 
of his ideas seem familiar to the reader, or 
should something of repetition appear in what 
he may now have to say. It will be his aim, 
however, to avoid reiterating what is already 
well known, and to adduce as many new facts 
in the present writing as he shall have in 
possession or be able to command. It consti- 
tutes no part of his plan to write a formal 
"Vindication of the Fraser River Mines;" 
or to frame apologies for the failures that have 
so frequently attended their working. This is 
a business to which he has not felt called — a 
work, the performance of which, in theabsence 
of any disposition or motive on his part, must 
necessarily be left toothers. 

Yet it is but just a proper exposition should 
be given of the causes that led to these failures 
80 continuous, general and disastrous, as to 
have well nigh destroyed all confidence in the 
mineral wealth of a country, which, but ten 
months ago, was, by many, deemed a rival, if 
not the peer, of California. Candor compels 



the admission that these untoward results 
were attributable to the precipitate action of 
the adventurers themselves, coupled with mani- 
fold and all but insuperable obstacles inter- 
posed between them and their field of opera- 
tions, quite as much as to the limited area or 
non-productive character of the mines. A 
slight examination of the country to be pene- 
trated, and of the circumstances under which 
this immigration took place, can hardly fail to 
confirm this opinion, and impress its justness 
upon every candid and dispassionate mind. 
No special pleading should be tolerated in 
behalf of these mines, nor should any attempts 
be winked at for glossing over the fearful 
perils and fatal catastrophies that attended 
their opening. We have had enough of this 
— and too much, as the thousands returning 
empty-handed, and the hundreds who will no 
more return at all, can testify. Still, it is meet 
the public be possessed of all the facts, to the 
end, that being fully advised they may fairly 
judge and intelligently act for themselves. 

It is, moreover, important that the residents 
of California properly understand the relative 
postion of their own State and these new com- 
munities about being planted on their northern 
border, and that they fully appreciate the re- 
ciprocal advantages likely to arise therefrom 
in the future. This is a point on which, owing 
to a perverted sentiment of patriotism, or a 
narrow feeling of national jealousy, or, per- 
haps, to thej low stand-point from which the 
subject has been viewed, there is much misap- 
prehension in the minds of our citizens. We 
have been apt to consider these colonies of 
British Columbia and Vancouver as necessarily 
antagonistic to the interests and progress of 
California. It has been our wont to regard 
them simply as rivals — competitors entering 
the field to bid for population — decoying 
sojourners from our midst, and diverting new- 
comers from our shores. Some have even af- 
fected to see in these distant provinces, so sit- 
uate on the outer verge of the British empire, 
the instruments wherewith England hopes to 
check our growth and impede our march to 
greatness, if indeed they may not be the germs 
of a power which is one day to arise and over- 
shadow our Pacific Republics. 

That England has great purposes to effect in 
this part of the world, is no doubt true ; that 
she has grand projects on foot, looking to a 
union of her North American colonies, and 



6 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



light draught steamers to Fort Yale, a point 
110 miles «ibovc its mouth. Harrison river can, 
under like circumstances, be ascended to Har- 
rison Lake, a distance of ten miles from its 
junction with the Fraser, securing steamboat 
navigation on that route, by means of the river 
and lake, for over fifty miles. Small steamers 
could also run on the Fraser between the 
Upper Canon and Thompson's Fork, a stretch 
of twenty-five or thirty miles. The upper por- 
tions of this river, however, as well as nearly 
all the others throughout the territory, gener- 
ally flow with a strong current, broken in 
many places by falls and rapids, and hence arc 
little adapted to steamboat navigation. 

LAKES. 

British Columbia is in every part thickly 
studded with lakes, some of them of consider- 
able raagnftude, and nearlv all remarkable for 
their great depth of water, a feature traceable 
no doubt, as a general thing, to the abrupt 
character of the mountains in which they arc 
imbosomed. Some of even the smaller have 
been sounded to a depth of 400 feet without 
finding bottom. In shape, they are usually 
long and narrow, and in several instances lie 
in chains linked by connecting streams along 
deen depressions, to all appearance the beds of 
former rivers. Some of these lakes are between 
fifty and sixty miles long, and from eight to 
ten broad. The water is cold the year round, 
and, for the most part, exceedingly clear. To 
this, however, there are exceptions, as, for ex- 
ample, the Lilooet, the color of which is a dirty 
green, caused probably by its feeders running 
over a species of argillaceous earth, that im- 
parts to the water its turbid appearance. A 
few of the smaller are somewhat alkaline, but 
not to a degr-^e that forbids their use. During 
the summer months salmon of an excellent 
quality abound in both the rivers and lakes, 
and form the principal food of the natives, who 
take them in large quantities, consuming what 
they require while fresh, and curing the balance 
for winter \ise. The salmon season extends 
from June to October. 

CLIMATE. 

The climate of the Pacific coast, as is well 
known, is no where so severe in the same par- 
allel of latitude as that of the Atlantic, the 
difference varying from 15 to 20 degrees — that 
.s, we have to go some 1,200 miles further 
north on the Atlantic side of the continent to 
find a mean-winter temperature corresponding 
to that on the Pacific side. And though the 
climate of British Columbia forms no excep- 
tion to this rule, it is somewhat varied, certain 
belts of country being warm and dry, while 
others are moist and of a more equitable tem- 
perature. Thus we have a district extending 
from the mouth of Fraser river inland about 
150 miles characterized by a humid climate, 
and in which the thermometer of Fahrenheit 
rarely falls below ten or rises above ninety de- 
grees in the course of the year. Throughout 
this region rain is abundant during the spring, 
summer and autumn, falling not only in fre- 



quent showers, but continuing sometimes for 
several days together. Snow also fiills here 
in tiie winter from one to two feet, often more 
in the northern part of the district, though 
hardly so much near the sea. It is not apt to 
lay more than a week or two at a time, it then 
melting and the ground remaining bare for a 
like interval, to be again succeeded by an- 
other fall, and so on throughout the winter, 
which generally breaks up in the early part 
of March. The damp and cloudy weather here 
prevalent during the summer prevents the heat 
reaching so high a point as farther in the inte- 
rior. When the atmosphere is clear heavy 
dews fall at night, and fogs at all seasons of 
the year are common. 

Beyond this wet section of country, the 
northern limits of which crosses the Lilooett 
route in the vicinity of Anderson's lake, and 
the Fraser between the Uper Canon and the 
Forks, lies a district of about equal breadth, 
characterized by greater heat and aridity, and 
which though situate further north and gene- 
rally more elavated, is scarcely any colder in 
the winter, and has even less snow than the 
country further south along the lower Fraser. 
North of this, again, is another belt having a 
more humid climate, showers beine frequent 
in the summer, and the winters somewhatmore 
rigorous. 

Taken altogether then, the climate of British 
Columbia though subject to much fluctuation, 
and varying with locality, cannot be consider- 
ed one of great severity, neither the heat of 
summer nor the cold of winter reaching such 
extremes as in Canada, or the northern States 
of the Union. As evidence on this point, it 
may be stated that the snow f.long the valleys 
of the Upper Fraser and its tributaries, rarely 
ever exceeds eighteen inches in depth, and 
for the most part does not even reach six 
inches, while a great portion of the time there 
is none at all on the ground during winter. 
The larger lakes never freeze over, nor does 
the Fraser or other large streams ever close 
entirely up. Stock is able to sul)sist on the 
bunch grass throughout the winter, and even 
work animals keep in tolerable condition on 
the rushes that grow in the bottoms without 
other feed. On the divides and more elevated 
places, the depth of snow as well as the degree 
of cold, depends of course on the height of the 
locality ; the traveller encountering snow in 
some places he may have to pass, twice as deep 
as that found in the valleys There was no 
snow or frost of any consequence on the Upper 
Fraser river last year, "until about the first of 
December, when the weather suddenly became 
cold, the snow fitlling to a dei)th of five or six 
inches, and even a foot, on the lower part of 
the river. The smaller streams and the ditches 
at the same time became covered with ice, and 
the ground froze to the depth of several inches, 
interfering seriously with, and for the most 
part putting a stop to mining operations. This 
weather after continuing for two or three 
weeks, moderated, and for the next five weeks 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



but little snow fell, while the thermometer in 
two or three instances only, went below 20 de- 
grees, fluctuating between that point and 45 
degrees. 

After this mild period came another spell of 
cold and varying weather, which held for three 
or four weeks, when the snow and ice mostly 
disappeared, and the Indians leaving their 
winter houses, declared that seaso» at an end. 

The miners also got to work in their claims, 
and havcnot since been interrupted. This was 
early in the month of March, since which 
time the weather has been constantly growing 
warmer, the thermometer having fallen but a 
few times below the freezing point. During 
-Vlarch the weather was showery, with some 
slight frosts and falls of snow in the early part 
of the month. 

Much the same kind of climate as above de- 
scribed, prevails throughout the regions lying 
between and bordering on the Kamloops and 
Great Okiaagan lakes, as well as the extensive 
districts to the north and east. 

SOIL. 

About the mouth of Fraser river, and extend- 
ing up that river forty or fifty miles, the country 
is mostly level and somewhat swampy. With 
the exception of a few small prairies, and some 
inconsiderable clearings near Fort Langley, it 
ia covered with a dense and heavy growth of 
timber, as are also the adjacent mountains as 
high as the limit of vegetation, above which 
they are clad with perpetual snow. The lower 
l)Orti«is of this flat laud near the mouth of the 
river are nothing but an extended marsh, being 
overflowed by the tides and the stream at its 
higher stages, and from the tall thick growth 
of flags with which they are covered strongly 
resemble the tule lands of California. The 
soil of the prairies and dryer parts, consists of 
a black vegetable mold, being warm and fer- 
tile and capable of producing abundantly of 
vegetables and ccretls, as the spots about Fort 
I.iangley, cultivated for many years to grain 
and potatoes, amply prove. In places, how- 
ever, there is rather too large an admixture of 
sand with a substratum, of gravel and decom- 
posed granite, causing the soil to leach and 
thus readily part with its fertilizing properties. 
The prairies are covered with rank grass from 
which the Company have been in the habit of 
making hay for their winter use. 

On the southern limit of this flat country and 
lying partly on either side of the line, is the 
Smess prairie, of great fertility and considera- 
ble extent,which, together with the Chilliwhaick 
and also the Lilooett meadows at the head of 
Lilooett lake, will hereafter claim a more par- 
ticular notice as constituting the most valuable 
portions of the district under consideration. 

In passing north we next come to the country 
of the Upper Fraser, with its dry climate, fer- 
tile bottoms, table lands and prairies covered 
with bunch grass and scattered pine trees.,^ 
Here there is a great deal of good land, equally 
fit for trardening and farming with an unlimit- 
ed amount of pasturage, grass growing every- 



where, even to the tops of the mountains. The 
only drawback to the successful cnltivation 
of the soil in this region would be the drouth, 
which might render irrigation necessary except 
in the more moist and fertile bottoms. That 
much of the sell is sufficiently rich in 
itself to produce good crops, admits of no 
doubt, yet to insure that result irrigation, for 
which there are, fortunately, great facilities, 
might, in many cases, be required. The same 
remark will probably apply with equal force 
to the vast region east of the Cascade Range, 
where, it is admitted, there are large bodiea 
of land possessing a verj- prolific soil, and sup- 
plying exceedingly desirable places for settle- 
ment. 

SCENEKV. 

The scenery in almost every part of British 
Columbia is unique, bold and impressive, while 
in some sections it assumes an aspect of wild 
and gloomy grandeur. Vast mountains, cleft 
to the base by hideous fissures, gigantic for- 
ests tangled with undergrowth, sullen lakes 
shaded by lofty cliffs and skirted by sedgy fen- 
lands, sunless valleys, ariil pl;iins and rolling 
praries, majestic rivers, cascades, snow-peaks, 
precipices and foaming torrents foim some of 
the prominent features of the scenery every- 
where met with. To the east of the Cascade 
range the scenery is less striking and varied 
than elsewhere, though scarcely less attractive, 
the country abounding in fertile bottoms, 
watered by numerous wood-fringed streams, 
and in high praries covered with grass and 
flowers and a scanty growth of trees. The 
same description of soil and scenery applies 
to the valley of Salmon river, and all the 
southern tributaries of Thompson's Fork, aa 
well as to the region about Lake Sushwap and 
the great Okinagan. In going north on the Up- 
per Fraser and its branches, some variation in 
the landscape is observable ; the plains are 
narrower and the mountain sides more wall- 
like ; springs and streams are more frequent, 
and timber more plentiful, the hills beingoften 
well wooded, and the praries embossed with 
clumps of trees. A novel and highly pictur- 
esque feature is here presented in the terraced 
banks and park-like parterres running for 
miles along the deep-chasmed Fraser. Noth- 
ing can surpass the beauty of these table lands 
rising in regular gradations, often three or four 
tier higii, and extending l)ack a great distance, 
their slopes as even and their angles as sharp 
as if they had bcenshaj)cd by the hand of man. 
Indeed, it is hard to believe, in view of their 
uniform declivity and clean cut edges, that 
something of art has not been employed in 
laying them out, or governing their construc- 
tion. 

In truth, there is scarce any part of this ter- 
ritory' in which even the untutored eye fails to 
detect something calculated to awaken pleas- 
urable emotions ; some object in nature ap- 
pealing to our appreciation of the beatiful and 
vast. The snow cones, when the sky is clear, 
are especially fitted to arrest the attention and 



BRITISH COLUMBIA. 



challenge the admiration of even the most 
stolid and prosaic. Cold, pure and sky-pierc- 
ing, the nearest, though afar off, seem strangely 
present, while the more distant, as they recede 
further and further, fade into cloud-like pavil- 
ions scarce distinguishable from the atmos- 
phere into which they seem about to dissolve. 
Hardly less grand, and evem more attractive, 
are the water-falls often met with in the moun- 
tainous districts. Sometimes these have a 
perpendicular fall of a hundred feet or more ; 
sometimes they rush down the mountain sides 
in a straight shoot two or three thousand feet, 
the water so dashed into foam that it resem- 
bles long frills of drifted snow, or wavy threads 
of silver. Occasionally there are startling 
sounds as well as strange sights to arrest the 
attention of the traveler in these solitudes. At 
times a heavy sound like buried thunder may 
be heard issuing from the cavernous gates, and 
resouuding through the chambers of the moun- 
tains. It is an avalanche or land-slide, things 
not unfrequent when the snow melts and the 
frost leaves the ground on the approach of 
warm weather. Taken altogether, the scenery 
of British Columbia is exceedingly picturesque, 
varied and majestic, affording a rich and am- 
ple field for the explorations of the tourist, as 
well as the inquiries of the savant and the study 
of the artist, some of whom have already 
sought it in the prosecution of their researches 
and the exercise of their calling. 

SALUBRITY. 

That the climate of Vancouver's Island, as 
well as of the main land, is extremely favor- 
able to health is pretty well established by the 
experience of the large number who visited 
that section last year ; as also by the testimony 
of the old residents, nearly all of whom have 
been remarkably exempt from disease. Not- 
withstanding the hardship, deprivation and 
exposure to which thousands of the Fraser 
river adventurers were subjected, and the 
severe labor they were called upon to perform, 
there was very little sickness amongst them, 
while the deaths from disease were almost 
none at all. When it is considered that these 
men were, as a general thing, very unfavorably 
situated for the preservation of health — many 
of them proceeding to the mines in open boats, 
crossing a stormy gulf in their passage, toil- 
ing up rapid streams week after week, en- 
camping on the damp ground, almost con- 
stantly wet from the falling rains, or wading 
in ice-cold water, exhausted with dragging 
their boats up rapids, or making portages 
round falls ; often annoyed by Indians, and 
uot unfrequently suffering from insufficiency 
of food — it speaks well for the sanitary charac- 
ter of the climate that they should have expe- 
rienced such a general immunity from sickness 
and disease. N»t only so, but these men, 
with scarcely an exception, increased largely 
in flesh at the very time they were being sub- 
jected to these deprivations and toils — adding 
to their weight beyond precedent, and enjoying 
more robust health than ever before. It was 
no uncommon thing to hear men boast of this 



increment, which in some cases, was really 
quite extraordinary. 

The circumstances under which the first 
emigration to Fraser river took place, were 
certainly as little conducive to health as those 
attending the early settlement of the Califor- 
nia mines, yet the proportional amount of 
sickness in the two cases, shows greatly to our 
disadvantage — the difference being as three to 
one against us. 

The most frequent cause of ailment in 
British Columbia has, thus far, been rhuma- 
tism ; apparently the only endemic disease as 
yet developed in the country; though it does 
seem a little strange that fever and ague should 
scarcely be known, though there is much 
overflowed and marshy land, productive of 
those miasmatic exhalations on the presence 
of which this malady is dependent. That this 
maleria is so little virulent is probably owing 
to the fact that the district where it most pre- 
vails, is situate near salt water, being thus 
influenced by the sea breezes and the tides. 
But whatever the cause, it is undeniable that 
the climate of British Columbia is both invig- 
orating and S9.1ubrious, and one to which the 
immigrant may repair with as little apprehen- 
sion as to any other on the coast, or perhaps 
any other on the face of the globe. 

INDIANS. 

The native races dwelling in the territory 
of British Columbia, although resembling each 
other in their physical appearance and other 
leading characteristics, indicating iden#ty of 
origin, are still divided into numerous tribes, 
each having a distinct name, and for the most 
part, speaking a different language. In some 
instances they seem to have been grouped into 
larger communities or confederations, having 
the same appellation, being that perhaps of the 
most powerful or influential of their number. In 
other cases names have been supplied them by 
the whites, but which, suggested often by 
mere caprice or accident, do not appear to have 
been recognized very fully by the aborigines 
themselves. Thus the term Carrier was ap- 
plied at an early day to the tribes living along 
the upper Fraser; and still later the word 
Couteau was used to designate not only the 
inhabitants, but also tlae country further 
south ; it being a corruption of the Indian 
Nicoutameen, the name of a numerous tribe on 
the lower Fraser, and which from its resem- 
blance to the French, couteau, a knife, was 
readily converted into that term by the voy- 
agc'urs. The applicationof a word ofsuch san- 
guinary significance to this people, was some- 
what vial appropo, since, as would seem, they 
were rather distinguished for theirpacific pro- 
clivities, than otherwise. At best, there would 
appear to have been much confusion in the 
manner of naming these tribes, scarce two 
authorities agreeing as to the title by which 
any particular portion of them should be 
known, or the precise limits of their territo- 
rial possessions. Some writers have made the 
entire number of people occupying this region 
to consist of two great nations ; the Takali 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, «fec. 



or Carriers, at the north, and the Atnahs or 
Sushiwaps further south. Some have divided 
them into Chilcotins, Kuz Lakes, Naskotins, 
Talkotins and Atnahs or Chin Indians. While 
others have designated them by still different 
names, or assigned to them boundaries widely 
diverse. From all which it is evident their 
tribal limits are illy defined, and their geo- 
graphical nomenclature sufficiently crude and 
unsettled. 

To account for this confusion and illustrate 
how these territorial boundaries may be made, 
to suffer a nominal expansion, a ease of recent 
occurience., might be cited as in point. The 
Lilooett] nation, once powerful, but now re- 
duced to a few hundred persons, having given 
their name to a lake and river near their vil- 
lage, the same came afterwards to be applied 
to the new route opened by Government along 
these waters, and, finally to the country adja- 
cent, until at present the whole region is in 
popular parlance termed the Lilooett, and it is 
common to hear both whites and Indians 
speak of going to the Lilooett, when perhaps 
they simply mean the terminus of the Trail, 
or other point far distant from the home of 
that people. Extended inquiry, however, into 
this branch of knowledge, could hardly prove 
profitable, since the Indian notions on the sub- 
ject are quite as crude and indefinite as those 
of the whites. Nor is it at all a matter of 
practical moment, since in addressing these 
races, it will be found a sufficient lingual at- 
tainment to have mastered the terms "Siwash" 
and " Clootchman," these being well under- 
stood by all,^and as likely to insure attention 
as words expressive of individual or national 
entity. 

Each village, or tribe, is governed by a Tyhee, 
or chief, whose authority, though rather arbi- 
trary, does not seem to be very extended or 
well defined, being as much dependant on per- 
gonal prowess and wealth, as on any fixed rules 
or hereditary rights. The amount of property 
possessed by these Sagamores, such as canoes, 
horses, blankets, guns, wives, slaves, etc., 
mostly determines the extentof their influence, 
and consequent authority, not only with their 
own people but also with their neighbors. By 
the same rule is measured the degree of honor 
to be awarded them after death. Besides these 
leading men, there are Sitcum Tyheefi, or half 
chiefs, who aid the principals in the discharge 
of their duties, or act for them in their absence. 

A fierce spirit of animosity prevails amongst 
many of these tribes ; a feeling that formerly 
manifested itself in sanguinary wars, wherein 
whole communities were cut off or reduced to 
slaver}'. Since the presence of the whites 
amongst them, this hostility has been so far 
restrained as to spend itself for the most part 
in private feuds, murders and petty skirmishes, 
with occasional forays on a weaker neighbor, 
often attended with circumstances of treachery 
and cruelty, and almost always conducted in a 
manner reflecting unfavorably on the magnan- 
imity and courage of the party assailant. To 



pretend, however, that these Indians are any 
worse, or to claim that they are any better than 
like races elsewhere, or to say there is any 
more or any less virtue and intelligence extant 
amongst them, would be disingenuous, and ar- 
gue an ignorance of savage life generally. As 
with similar types of men elsewhere, their vir- 
tues are few and leeble, their vices multiplied 
and inveterate — appetite being apt to predomi- 
nate over the sense of right, and passion over 
reason ; j'ct they are by no means a dangerous 
people to dwell amongst, or a difficult one to 
manage, as the success of the Hudson's Bay 
Company in their dealings with them fully 
shows. The tribes about Kamloops and on the 
upper Eraser, even to the far north, are espe- 
cially honest, intelligent and tractable, and 
withal, generally well disposed towards the 
whites. They are also physically greatly the 
superiors of the tribes further south, being 
much more athletic and well formed. Their 
features, too, are, as a general thing, more re- 
gular and prominent, some of them having a 
contour of face highly classical ; a circum- 
stance less attributable, perhaps, to any ori- 
ginal superiority of the race, than to the pres- 
ence of the whites amongst them. Indeed, it 
is well known that the Jesuit missionaries, at 
an early period in the colonial history of 
Canada, in their zeal to propagate the tenets of 
the church, penetrated to the remotest parts of 
the continent, carrying their religion far beyond 
the limits of civilization, and planting it on the 
distant banks of the Saskatchawan and the 
Eraser. Here for years^ secluded from the 
world, these holy men labored with results so 
beneficial to the spiritual and material nature 
of their neophytes as have led the devout to 
canonize them for their self-denying toil, and 
the physiologist to infer that the Good Eather* 
had impressed soraethingof their own physical 
lineaments on these rude children of the wil- 
derness, while seeking to engraft the shoots of 
evangelical truth on their simple faith. 

The extent to which the efforts of these 
early heralds of the Gospel were successful, is 
evinced not only in the somewhat improved 
morality of these northern tribes, but also by 
the extent of their knowledge of the cardinal 
doctrines, and their familiarity with the cere- 
monial observances of the church. The stran- 
ger is surprised on falling in with these people 
to find them making the sign of the cross in 
token of their Christian belief, while kneeling, 
genuflexion and the murmuring of set prayers 
are practiced on every befitting occasion. The 
•rucifix is universally regarded as an object of 
veneration, and it is related by the voiiagcurs 
who have penetrated tar into the interior, that 
it is no uncommon thing to find rude cros es 
la'nted on the lodges and deserted huts, or 
cut on the trees \\\ those distant wilds, to which 
the natives bow in daily adoration, paying 
them genuine homage as the emblems of a 
higher and better futh, taught them by men 
who came to Ix ncfit and bless, instead o\ 
cneat and despoil them, as has since too often 



10 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



been the practice of the whites. As evidence 
of the progress made by these people, not in 
the mere rituals only, but also in the essential 
doctrines of the Christian religion, as well as 
of their generally enlightened notions of 
morality and justice, an incident may be ad- 
duced that occurred at the Fountain in Jan 
uarylast: An Indian, belonging to the vil- 
lage at that place, having committed a trifling 
offence, fled to the north, taking refuge with a 
powerful tribe, governed by a chief named 
Guillaunie, in the neighborhood of Fort Alex- 
ander. This personage, whose authority is 
very extended, being recognized in a general 
way by most of the tribes north of the Foun- 
tain, and who had already heard of the diffi- 
culties between the Indians and the whites the 
preceding summer, instead of screening the 
fugitive by affording the coveted protection, 
had him arrested, and setting out with a 
numerous retinue, brought him in mid-winter 
all the way to the Fountain, a distance of 
nearly two hundred miles, where he delivered 
him into the charge of Alexander MacCrellish, 
then an official at that place. 

This gentleman, in view of the trifling 
nature of the alleged offence, handed the 
accused over to his own people, to be dealt 
with as they might see fit. A council having 
been called, and the case examined, the pris- 
oner was found guilty, and condemned to be 
publicly whipped, a sentence that was forth- 
with carried into effect. This species of pun- 
ishment is one of which the Indian has a 
special dread, not so much for the physical 
pain attending as l^e social degradation at- 
taching to its infliction. After receiving it, 
the culprit, unless previously rendered insensi- 
ble to shame, is apt to avoid, for the time be- 
ing, the society of his fellows, and withdraw- 
ing, sit apart, bowed down with a sense of 
humiliation. From the stigma of his disgrace 
he is not readily relieved, unless restored to 
good i-tanding at the time by those who have 
decreed his punishment — an act of clemency 
frequently extended to the culprit on his mani- 
festing a due degree of contrition, coupled 
withthepromiseofameudment. Our hero onthis 
occasion, having placed himself in this category, 
was graciously reinstated by the considerate 
and kind hearted GuiUamne^ who had just be- 
fore passed sentence upon him. The act of grace 
was conducted as follows : — A bountiful feast 
having been prepared — the supplies generously 
donated by Mr. MacCrellish — all the prin- 
cipal men were gathered about the board, after 
which, a lilessing having been invoked in true 
Christian style, the transgressor was beckoned 
to draw near. This he did, approaching on 
his knees, when the old Chief, placing his 
hands on the repentant's head, kindly soothed 
his sorrow and quited his sobs, whispering to 
him in the meantime words of consolation and 
encouragement, and finally imploring the aid 
of the Great Spirit to strengthen hisgood reso- 
lutions, pronounced a benediction, declared 
his forgiveness, and invited him to partake of 
the repast, a privilege denied other attendants. 



From the above, it will be seen that these 
people, however we may call them savages, or 
treat them as such, are by no means deficient 
in the religious sentiment, or ignorant of the 
code of Christian ethics. It is not always that 
criminal cases are adjudicated with so much 
good sense as in the example just recited ; nor 
is it every tribunal that so effectually attains 
the true aims of punishment, while it so fully 
vindicates the claims of justice. Indeed, a 
finer instance of well directed benevolence — of 
the rigor of law, tempered with merited cle- 
mency, is not often met with. Nor would it be 
easy to find, even within the pale of civilized 
life, one endowed with more native goodness, 
or whom we would so instinctively trust, as 
this same unschooled Chief of the Carrier Na- 
tion. When looking into his calm and benig- 
nant face, one can hardly believe that the la- 
bors of the contemned and world-feared Jesuit 
were all fruitless of good, since he sees there- 
flex of their teachings there, and reads in every 
act of this old man's life a living illustration 
of the doctrines of Jesus. 

The foregoing case has been presented thus 
broadly not so much for its intrinsic interest, 
as because it serves to throw light on the con- 
dition and character of a race with whom 
some portion of our own people may hereafter 
come in contact, inasmuch as they inhabit a 
district in which the most prolific part of the 
Fraser river mines is supposed to be located. 
Being timely advised as to the disposition or 
other peculiarities of the natives, those enter- 
ing their territory will know how to approach 
and regulate their intercourse s'ith them, thus 
securing advantages that might otherwise be 
lost, and avoiding difficulties into which, 
through ignorance or misapprehension, they 
might be betrayed. As has been stated then, 
the Indians on the upper Fraser are morally 
and physically superior to the tribes further 
south, as well as those generally met with on 
American territory. And although they are 
averse to having the whites enter their coun- 
try, there will be no active opposition, once 
they find it inevitable. Indeed, by the ob- 
servance of a little tact and good management, 
the new comers may not only gain easy ingress 
to the country, and procure the objects of their 
visit in peace, but also secure the friendship of 
the natives and render them highly serviceable 
to them in their labors. 

There are two lines of policy or modes of 
treatment, either of which is tolerably effective 
in the conduct of our intercourse with the In- 
dians. One of these adopts the plan of yield- 
ing to his caprices, falling in with his notions, 
and accommodating ourselves to his peculia'./ 
ities and modes of living, as is apt to be the 
practice of the French. The other consists in 
treating him with kindness and justice, but at 
the same time making i'f^.w concessions to his 
views or wishes while we sternly mould him 
to our own purposes, and compel him to yield 
in everything essential to our success and 
comfort. 

Either of these modes, as has been stated, if 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



11 



consistently cnrricd out, will answer very well, 
but it is the niisCortuiic of the Americans that 
while they attempt both they adhere strictly 
to neither, it being too much their custom to 
bully and abuse the Indian at one time, thus 
arousing his enmity and opposition, and to 
trifle with him at another thereby encouraging 
him to disobedience and incurring his con- 
tempt. By pursuing a course dignified but 
conciliatory, kind but firm, the troubles, or 
rather miserable squabbles, into which our 
people are so apt to be involved, might for the 
most part be avoided. Let it be borne in mind 
that the tribes of which wc are speaking are 
not the degraded, sensual creatures elsewhere 
met with, ready to submit tamelj' to the indig- 
nities of the white man, or pander to his lust. 
With these, female purity is carefully preserved 
and high)}' prized — conjugal infidelity or other 
species of incontinence being of rare occur- 
rence. If our people will bear these facts in 
mind, and regulate their conduct accordingly, 
they will have little to fear from the opposition 
or enmity of these not very sanguinary, nor yet 
altogether savage tribes. 

POSTS OP THE Hudson's bay company. 

Locat(d in various parts of British Colum- 
bia the Hudson's Bay Company have a number 
of forts or trading establishments for carrying 
on their traflic with the native tribes. These 
posts generally bear the name of some member 
of the Company, or other individual prominent 
in their service. They are all constructed on 
the same general plan, differing only as to the 
number or dimension of their buildings, being 
governed in these particulars by the impor- 
tance of the trade at the point where they are 
located. In founding a post reference is always 
had to accessibility, the number of Indians, 
and the abundance of fur-producing animals 
in the neighborhood. It is also desirable that 
there be seme good land convenient, tliat a 
sufficient supply of grain ftnd vegetables may be 
raised for the wants of the place. These latter, 
liowever, and even bread have often to be 
dispensed with by these hardj' employes of the 
Company, their only food being salmon or 
other fish, with such wild fruits as the Indians 
may gather, and an occasional contribution of 
game. Of the Intter they obtain but a very 
scanty supplj^ every species of animal being 
scarce throughout the Territory owing to the 
pcrtenacity with which they have long been 
hunted both for their petries and flesh. Yet, 
at a number of these establishments, not 
only gardening but also farming, has been car- 
ried on to a considerable extent, while large 
numbers of neat cattle have been raised and 
n some instances also sheep. 

The site selected for these forts is generally 
a spot on the bank of a lake or river, suffici- 
ently elevated to command the surrounding 
country. The buildings are constructed of 
hewed timber, and vary from a single block- 
house to fifteen or twenty in number. They 
consist of one or two large houses for the ac- 
commodation of the officers and clerks, and 



others, the quarters of the laborers and me- 
chanics ; also spacious storehouses for the re- 
ception of goods and furs, with shop? for car- 
penters, coopers, blacksmiths, &c., and a powder 
magazine, built of brick or stone. The more 
important posts have, in addition, a school- 
house and chapel. The whole establishment 
is surrounded by a stockade fifteen or twenty 
feet high, inside of which, near the top, is a 
gallery, with loop-holes for muskets. This 
picket-work is flanked with bastions of which 
there are generally two, placed at diagonal 
corners These mount several small pieces 
of cannon and are also amplj* pierced for mus- 
ketry. Seen from a distance these posts pre- 
sent a rather formidable appearance, and 
though capable of offering but slight resistance 
to artillery, have ever been found sufficient to 
overawe the Indian or resist his attacks. 

FORT LANGLEV. 

In ascending Eraser river, the first fort 
arrived at is Langley, on the south bank of 
the river, twenty-five miles from its mouth. 
It is an old and extensive establishment, at 
present under the supervision of Mr. Yale. The 
Company have a large farm at this plnce, with 
a considerable amount of stock. The land, 
cleared of heavy timber, is said to produce 
good crops, and in the garden attached to the 
fort vegetables grew last summer with the 
greatest luxuriance, while the apple trees were 
loaded down with fruit. There are many little 
{irairies in the neighborhood, which being cov- 
ered with coarse grass, afford ample feed for 
slock as well as hay for winter use. The Com- 
pany had large stores of goods at this post last 
season, it being a sort of distributing point to 
places above, and to which many of the miners 
and traders came for supplies. There is an 
Indian village on the opposite side of the river 
containing the remnant of a once numerous 
tribe, but like most of the race in this part of 
the countiy, they have become not only greatly 
reduced in numbers but sadly demoralized, 
and it is questionable whether their services or 
trade can hereafter prove of much advantage 
to the Company, or any one else. 

FOKT HOPE 

Is the next post met with in going up the 
river, on the same side with Langley, and sev- 
enty miles above it. It is an old settlement, at 
present in charge of J\Ir. Walker, and consists 
of three block buildings within a picketed in- 
closure. Being of limited capacity and some- 
what dilapidated, additional houses have been 
erected for the accommodation of the very ex- 
tensive trade carried on, this place having thus 
far proved the head of steamboat navigation. 
Suitable steamers, it is thought, can run to 
Fort Yale during high water, the Umatilla 
having reached that point once last summer. 
The passage, however, will always be attended 
with difficulty and some degree of danger. 

FORT YALK. 

This place is fourteen miles above Fort Hope 
and on the opposite or west bank of the river. 
The original post consisted of a single log hut 



u 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



of small dimensions, ivithout any palisade or 
ot'lier military surroundings. Last year a large 
block store in addition was erected. This has 
since been kept well stocked with goods, which 
have been sold at a moderate profit, however 
the market might at times have justified higher 
prices. The post is named after Mr. Yale, now, 
as has been stated, Chief Trader at Langley. 
He is an old and efficient servant of the Com- 
pany, having been on Fraser river over thirty 
years, during which time he has been but once 
absent from the Territory. Mr. Alvord is at 
j>resent Superintendent at this place. 

FORT DALLAS AND FORT BEEENS. 

The former of these posts is situated about 
fifty miles above Fort Yale, on the east bank of 
the river, and three miles below the mouth of 
Thompson's Fork. It is named after Mr. Alex. 
G. Dallas, a son-in-law of Governor Douglas, 
a gentleman whose efficient services and liberal 
views have alike secured him the confidence of 
the Company and the respect of the public, and 
who, in the estimation oi all, is deemed justly 
to merit the compliment thus paid him. The 
buildings not yet occupied, being in an unfin- 
ished state, are located on a handsome grassy 
eminence, overlooking the river, toward which 
it slopes with an even and gentle declivity. 
They will be completed and brought into use 
ihe present summer, there being a numerous 
raining population in the vicinity. Fort Berens, 
also named after a member ot the Company, is 
situated on the same side of the river, fifty 
miles above Fort Dallas, at a point opposite the 
terminus of the new trail opened through the 
Lilooett country to the upper Fraser. It occu- 
pies a magnificent table land, commanding a 
view for many miles up and down the river, 
and though laid out on an extensive scale, is 
in a still more unfinished state than Fort Dal- 
las ; yet,like the latter, is to be finished and oc- 
cupied during the present spring or summer. 

FORT KAM LOOPS. 

Making a deflection one hundred miles east, 
we arrived at Fort Kamloops, also called Fort 
Thompson. It is situated on the North Branch 
of Thompson's Fork, near its junction with the 
main stream, and a little above the head of 
Sushwap Lake, in the midst of an extended and 
highly fertile bottom. It is the only post the 
Company have in the interior of British Colum- 
bia to the east of Fraser river — Fort Colville, 
on the Columbia, at one time thought to be on 
the English, having been ascertained by the 
late survey to be on -the American side of the 
line. It is the intention of the Company to 
carry it to their own side this summer, and 
re-erect it under the name of Fort Shepherd, 
as a mark of respect for the present Governor of 
the Hudson's Bay Company. There are several 
hundred acres of land under cultivation near 
Fort Kamloops, a large proportion being 
planted to potatoes, which grow here with lit- 
tle culture, and of an excellent quality. Wheat 
and other cereals also thrive well, the yield 
being abundant and the crop quite certain. 
There is also a fine range for stock in the 



neighborhood, the cows and oxen, of which 
there are several hundred head, with a large 
number of horses, keeping fat through the 
summer, and in tolerable condition through 
the winter, though none except the working 
animals receive any fodder, unless, perhaps, it 
be a little straw. The Indian Chief, Paul, liv- 
ing near the Fort, owns a large amount of stock, 
the sale of which to the whites of late has ren- 
dered him quite wealthy. This post is under 
the management of chief trader McLean, a 
man held in great awe by the surrounding sav- 
ages, from his summary and decisive manner 
of dealing with offenders. Indeed, he is quit^ 
remarkable for his reckless intrepidity, even 
amongst a class distinguished for cool and 
determined courage. 

FORT ALEXANDRIA. 

Returning, and follwing up the Fraser over 
150 miles above Fort Berens, we arrive at Fort 
Alexandria, or as it is commonly called, Alex- 
ander, being named after Sir Alexander Mac- 
Kenzie, who indicated the spot as favorable 
for a station as early as 1793. Having reached 
this point on his journey ot exploration, this 
celebrated traveler being advised by the natives 
of the dangerous navigation of the river below, 
and conscious that he was already near the 
Pacific, directed his course toward the west, 
and stricking the Salmon river, followed it to 
its disemboguement in one of thosedeep canals 
that penetrate the coast of British Columbia 
in such a remarkable manner. It is the prin- 
cipal post of the company in this region, being 
a sort of depot for receiving the produce 
gathered at the stations still further on, of 
which there are a number, all however of 
secondary importance. This Fort is situated 
on the east bank of the Fraser, nearly in lati- 
tude 52° N. The country adjacent is open and 
picturesque, and is said to afford good hunting 
grounds, whence the Indian procuring an 
abundant supply of skins, that trade has always 
been active at this point. 

To the southwest of Alexandria, some fifty 
miles, is Fort Chilcotin, on a river, near a lake, 
and in the country of a tribe all bearing the 
same name. These people were once numer- 
ous, and their land abounding in beaver and 
other fur-producing animals, it was deemed 
advisable to establish a post amongst them. 
Subsequently, however, their number being 
reduced through war and disease, their trade 
proved profitless, and this station like several 
others further north, has been abandoned or is 
occupied only as occasion may require. In 
this catalogue may be enumerated Fort George, 
one hundred miles north of Fort Alexandria, 
at the junction of Stuart and Fraser rivers, 
and the still more inconsiderable stations of 
Fort Fraser, McLeod and St. James. 

FORT SIMPSON. 

The only remaining post requiting special 
mention is that of Fort Simpson, situated on 
Chathams Sound, in the extreme northwest 
corner of British Columbia, adjacent to the 
Russian Possessions. Located on a fine bar 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



13 



bor, the neighboring waters abounding in fish, 
and the land in wild animals, the centre of a 
large number of active and thrifty tribes, it 
enjoys a large and lucrative trade. It is the 
mart for all the various northern Indians, being 
frequented not only by those on the main land, 
but also by the inhabitants of Queen Char- 
lotte's Island, and the Russian Possessions. 
It is called after Sir George Simpson, formerly 
a Governor of the Company, and is frequently 
visited by steamers from Victoria, which carry 
up large quantities of goods adapted to the 
Indian trade, and return freighted with the 
commodities procured in exchange.- 

GOLD MINES — THEIR EARLY HISTORY. 

The existence of gold on Thompson's Fork, 
and possibly on other tributaries of the Fraser, 
has been known to the Hudson Bay traders for 
the last five or six years, the Indians having 
been in the habit of bringing in small quanti- 
ties and exchanging it for other commodities 
during this time. Mr. McLean, Chief Trader 
at Kamloops, procured some dust from the na- 
tives as early as '52, since which period more 
or less has been receivedat this and other posts 
of the Company, chiefly on Fraser river. The 
amount thus obtained, though perhaps consid- 
derable in the aggregate, was not so large as 
commonly conjectured, having been insufficient 
to awaken a suspicion in the minds of these 
traders that diggings remunerative to white 
labor existed in that quarter ; at least so little 
did they concern themselves about the matter, 
that others were left to make the final discovery 
which has resulted in so rapidlypopulatingthe 
country. The finding of paying placers in this 
region was not an event, however, of such sud- 
den or recent occurrence as is generally sup- 
posed, various parties having prospected the 
banks of Thompson's river and its branches at 
different times since theopening of the Colville 
mines in the fall of '55, and always with re- 
sults showing that moderate wages could be 
made on that stream, thoughnotsuch aswould 
then justify men remaining, the prices of pro- 
visions being enormously high, and the Indians 
disposed to be troublesome. During the sum- 
mer and fall of '57, a number of persons, being 
mostly adventurers from Oregon and Washing- 
ton Territories, or the Colville mines, together 
with a sprinkling of half-breeds and Canadian 
French, formerly in the Company's service, 
made their way into the country on the upper 
Fraser, where, prospecting in the neighbor- 
hood of the forks, they found several rich bars, 
on which they went to work, continuing opera- 
tions with much success, until forced to leave 
from want of provisions ori the approach of 
cold weather. Coming to Victoria, or return- 
ing whence they came, these men spread 
abroad the news of their good luck and laid 
the foundation for the excitement that soon af- 
ter followed. 

This intelligence reached San Francisco 
early in '58, and being confirmed by subse- 
quent reports, spread rapidly through the State, 
affecting every class, and causing a general 



stampede, until culminating about the middle 
of July, the movement had transferred full 
twenty thousand people from California to this 
new field of enterprise and exertion. How 
this all turned out in the end it is now useless 
to inquire, nor is it worth while to attempt in- 
dicating the particular agencies through which 
it was brought about. Some have attributed 
it to the efforts of the shipping interest opera- 
ting through the press, while others, with more 
reason and fairness, have detected its main 
spring in the private advices sent from the 
mines, and the naturally impulsive spirit of 
our people, who, in like case, have ever shown 
a penchant for acting first and deliberating af- 
terwards. That the newspaper press can be 
justly charged with any such complicity no 
well informed person will contend, since it 
would be difficult to find a single line in the 
editorial columns of any journal in the State 
calculated to magnify the wealth of those 
mines, or encourage emigration thither. If 
the directors of the press published letters, or 
extracts from other papers calculated to pro- 
duce that end, it was simply discharging their 
duty as impartial, journalists, which require* 
they shall present every side of a question en- 
gaging the public attention, however it maj- 
conflict with individual interest or their own 
private opinions. 

The truth is, every class of persons was more 
influenced by private letters received from 
parties who had already proceeded to Fraser 
river than by anything that appeared in the 
newspapers. It cannot be forgotten, that the 
mining community, recalling how often they 
had been mislead by similar rumors, took 
every precaution to guard against their being 
deceived in this instance; companies and small 
camps frequently delegating one of the most ex- 
perienced and trusty of their number to go 
and examine what foundation there might be 
for these flying stories, and report accordingly. 
And it was on these reports, or intelligence 
derived through like sources, that people for 
the most part acted. Sometimes a secret note 
addressed to a friend advising a hasty visit to 
the new Dorado, would gain publicity, and 
forthwith a general scamper would ensue, 
scores rushing away who never would have 
thought of going from anything they might 
see in the public prints. More than once a 
single letter so received from a precocious ad- 
venturer has had the effect to depopulate a 
farming district to an extent that seriously 
interfered with the gathering of the harvest. 
But why this vindication of the newspaper 
press, or wherefore these excuses for the con- 
duct of our people? Perhaps they did not err 
in their judgment so widely, or act so very 
foolishly after all. Let us review a little and 
see how this is. 

Here was a river reaching many hundred 
miles inland, the banks of which along its low- 
er portion were rich in gold, to all appearance 
washed down from above. Upon several 
tributaries of this river good diggings had also 



14 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



been found. Adjacent to the region traversed^ 
by it, and lying between the same mountain 
ranges were extensive placeres, that had been 
successfully worked for years. AVhat was 
there then, so preposterous in supposing an 
auriferous region existed along the banks of this 
stream ? Was it not reasonable to conclude 
such was the case ? Was not this a fair de- 
duction — an inference warranted by geological 
Kcience and our gold mining experience? Of 
course it was; and herein the press has ample 
justification for the course it pursued, and every 
I'raser-river adventurer a sufficient reason for 
the hope that was in him. It must be admit- 
ted we were mistaken — possibly in our esti- 
mate of the magnitude and value of these 
mines, though this remains to be proved ; but 
certain it is, we misapprehend theirprecise lo- 
cality, and the difficulties we should have to 
encounter in reaching them. Apart from this, 
no very great blunder was committed after all. 
We had what seemed safe data for action; and 
however we may now speak of it as a delusion, 
or denounce it as a humbug, it is not always 
our people have so sound a basis for theirfinan- 
cial and commercial speculations, or industrial 
projects, as had this widely execrated and suf- 
ficiently unfortunate Eraser river movement. 
And although it has become the fashion to rank 
it with Gold lake expeditions and South sea 
schemes — projects purely speculative or whol- 
ly visionary— it may safely be affirmed that 
before two years more shall have passed, these 
mines will redeem themselves from the odium 
of the comparison, if they do not fully realize 
the expectations of the pioneer crowd, all of 
whom sought them too early, and many of 
whom left them too soon. That this opinion 
of their future may not seem too sanguine, let 
ns examine for a moment. 

THEIR PRODUCTIVENESS AND EXTENT. 

If we begin at Fort Hope, and follow up Fra- 
ser river to the vicinity of Fort Alexander, we 
shall have passed over a stretch of country 
more than 300 miles long, all of which is 
auriferous. Some pay diggings have been 
found below Fort Hope, and to what extent 
the country above the highest point mentioned 
may be gold producing, has not yet been ascer- 
tained. Nearly all the bars within this scope, 
«ome of which are verj'^ extensive, contain a 
large amount of pay ditt. The high banks in 
some places have also shown a good prospect, 
while gold in small quantities has been found 
even on the table lands and sides of the moun- 
-tains. But the gold fields of British Columbia 
are not confined to the banks of the Fraser. 
Several of its tributaries are known to abound 
in the precious metal ; the yield of some hav- 
ing been quite as prolific as any part of the 
main stream itself. The banks of Bridge river, 
for forty miles up, have furnished very satis- 
factory diggings, the dust being coarse, of good 
quality and easily saved. The bars on Thomp- 
son's Fork, as high up as Nicholas river, have 
uniformly paid fair wages. Above that they 
have not generally, thus far, proved remuner- 
ative. Along Nicholas, Bonaparte and Tran- 



quille rivers, all branches of the Fork, the dig- 
gings that will pay moderate wages — saj' four 
or five dollars per day — may be measured by 
the acre. On the latter stream parties mining 
with rockers, averaged five dollars a day, dur- 
ing all last autumn. It has been prospected for 
forty or fifty miles, showing dirt along all that 
distance that would paj- equally well. Gold has 
also been found in other directions, and on wa- 
ters far separated from the Fraser. On the Liloo- 
ett river, reaching from one end to the other, are 
numerous bar? on which small wages can be 
made. The extreme fineness and levity of the 
dust, however, together with the long contin- 
ued stage of high water, the bars being gen- 
erally low, will preclude any chance of success- 
ful mining on this stream, unless carried on 
by some improved process, or during the three 
or four months preceding the commencement 
of cold weather. 

Such are the limits of the Fraser river gold 
fields as ascertained by actual exploration. 
How much they may be enlarged by future 
discoveries, or how rich these partiallj' pros- 
pected streams may eycntually prove, is matter 
for conjecture. That the multitude who re- 
sorted to them have been put poorly rewarded 
for their loss of time and oullaj' of money — 
that capital has met with indifl'erent returns, 
and merchandise netted but sorry profits, is 
lamentably true. Yet all this loss, disappoint- 
ment and disaster, is not to be set down to the 
narrow limits or poverty of the mines. As has 
been said, the laborer could not reach the 
actual mining district until too late in the 
season for successful operations. Besides, a 
vfry large percentage of those who went to 
Fraser river were either mere speculators and 
adventurers, or persons mentally indisposed to, 
if not physically incapable of doing hard work. 
As to the pecuniary loss attending invest- 
ments in that quarter, let us xsk ourselves 
how mtich of this iiay be traced to the most 
wild and absurd kind of speculation — to build- 
ing towns, erecting wharves, and cutting trails 
where nature never intended, and the require- 
ments of business never called for such im- 
provements? Thousands and hundreds of 
thousands of dollars were thus spent in futile 
attempts at building up cities where none 
were needed, and in ridiculous endeavors at 
forcing trade into costly and impracticable 
channels. Let the forced growth of Port 
Townsend, and the unwholesome impetus giv- 
ing to nearly every other place on the Sound, 
producing overtrade and a fictitious rise in 
real estate — let the acres of ruins and piled 
water lots at Whatcom, the foolish outhiys at 
Point Roberts,Semiahmoo and Sehome, together 
with the spirit of reckless expenditure and 
insane speculation everywhere exhibited, come 
in for their proper share of the losses incurred 
by these unfortunates, and which have so gen- 
erally but unjustly been charged to the ac- 
count of Fraser river. 

INDUCEMENTS TO EMIGRATION. 

It being evident, then, that the scope of pay 
diggings in British Columbia is sufficiently 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



15 



extensive, the question arises as to their rich- 
ness, or rather theircapacity to give immediate 
and profitable employment to any considerable 
population. The practical point to be decided 
is, whethereverything considered, better wages 
can be realized there than in the mines of Cali- 
fornia. Of course, it is not to be expected that 
any person, however much he may have seen 
of the two countries, or however conversant 
he may be with their comparative advantages, 
will assume to advise which should be chosen 
as a field for mining operations. So much 
depends on circumstances — the situation of 
parties, their fitness to endure hardship and 
exposure, on the increase of facilities for reach- 
ing the interior of British Columbia, and a 
variety of considerations, applying with greater 
or less force in each individual case, that any 
advise given on this point would necessarily be 
qualified to an extent rendering it nearly value- 
less as a general rule of action. The most that 
could be expected of one treating on the subject 
is thata full and candid statement of facts should 
be given, leaving each one to judge for himself 
as to the propriety of going or staying. It is 
the opinion of very many who have visited 
these northern mines that a hardy and per- 
severing man, being without a mining claim 
here, or sufficient means to buy into one, might 
for the next few years make more money there 
than in California. This, however, is on the 
supposition that he is capable of not only doing 
hard work, but also of subsisting on coarse 
and scanty fare, and that he can be absent for 
a length of time without serious inconvenience 
to himself or others; and also, perhaps, on the 
further condition that cheap and expeditious 
means of transportation be supplied between 
the head of steamboat navigation and the 
mines, since, with the present inadequate 
means of carriage, the inducements for emigrat- 
ing to that quarter are greatly diminished, the 
cost of subsistence in these mines being enor- 
mous ; not less in the more remote localities 
than the combined exptnse of living and the 
price usually paid for labor in this State. That 
additional improvements will shortly be made 
for effecting that object, either by the Colonial 
government engaging in the work or encourag- 
ing others to do so, there is every reason for 
believing, from the prompt and liberal mannea 
in which it has hitherto responded to demands 
of this kind; nofless than $150,000 having 
already been expended from the public treasury 
in opening new routes, or in endeavors to 
facilitate the carriage of goods into the mines. 
From present indications, it may be safely in- 
ferred that the cost of passage and freight over 
these routes, heretofore oppressively high, will 
be reduced one hundred per cent., if not more, 
during the coming summer, causing a corres- 
ponding reduction in the expensesof the miner, 
and a like increase in the net profits he will be 
able to realize from his labor. Should this be 
done, there is little doubt that men of moderate 
means might, unless going in too great num- 
bers, do quite as well for the present on Fraaer 



riveras on any of the streams in our own State. 
One advantage in these comparatively fresh 
mines is that every man can be his own master; 
he can own his claim and work it himself; 
none need be hirelings, and none need be idle; 
whereas, in California it is quite different.ij 
is not every miner who can be a proprietor 
here ; nor is it always that a man can get work 
when he wants it. 

It requires capital to buy into a claim here, 
or else much time must be spent in prospecting 
before one is found, and then not always with 
success. There, no persevering and industri- 
ous man need have any difficulty on this score; 
none need hire out their services, or be com- 
pelled to go for a length of time without em- 
ployment. In saying this, of course we mean 
on the upper Fraser and its tributaries, where 
alone, the real mines are, and to which most 
new comers must make their way if they ex- 
pect to be successful. The writer is aware 
how little short of seditious this sort of 
language will be regarded by those who fear 
the transfer of a few thousand men, the mere 
shifting the point of consumption from one 
place on this coast to another, will effect the 
ruin of California. But still he is of opinion 
that a candid statement of facts can never 
work harm, and that labor, while it should 
never be diverted into profitless channels, 
should always be left to seek its most remu- 
nerative field. There are sufficient discour- 
agements to emigration to the Fraser river 
mines without recourse to misrepresentation 
or concealment. Their remote and inaccessi- 
ble position, the exorbitant prices of provis- 
ions prevailing at present, the cold winters and 
long continued stage of high water, with many 
minor difficulties and objections, make up a 
formidable argument ngainst their claims to 
attention, and will no doubt check any undue 
diversion of our people that way. Yet in the 
face of all these discouragements, there i8 
good reason to believe some thousand of the 
more hardy and adventurous of our popula- 
tion, with an indefinite number of the idle and 
unemployed, might repair to these northern 
mines with profit to themselves and no great 
detriment to the public. Indeed, whatever of 
damage certain interests may have suffered 
from the begira of last year, it cannot be de- 
nied that much good resulted to this commu- 
nity in the happy riddance of a large number 
of worthless and non-producing members 
effected through its agency. 

Thecitiesand towns throughouttheState had 
become sadly infested by a class of lazy, list- 
less drones, some discouraged through want of 
success, others broken down by dissipation and 
vice — some vagabonds from force of circum- 
stances, and some from force of habit, yet all 
more or less a burden to their friends and a 
nuisance to society, and who, but for some 
stimulous like this Fraser river excitement, 
never would have made another honest effort 
to earn a livelihood ; but who, aroused by the 
prospect of easily acquired wealth, again be- 



16 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



took themselves to labor, and having thus es-. 
caped from the thraldom of a vicious indolence,' 
will be likely, in most cases, to recover their 
lost standing, and do something for themselves 
hereafter. And hence, however much individ- 
ual injury may have resulted from this Frazer 
river movement, it was not all a loss to the 
public at large. Deeply as we may deplore 
certain of its effects, it still left traces of good 
behind it. Like the winds that sweep over our 
city, it carried away the pestilential effluvia 
that otherwise stagnating, become the pregnant 
agents of disease and death. And it would 
hardly be matter for regret were our large 
towns more frequently the subjects of these 
visitations, so effectual in purging the social 
atmosphere, and relieving community of its 
vagrant and vicious members. 

IMPROVED PROSPECTS. 

Notwithstanding the difficulties in the way 
of reaching the gold fields of British Columbia 
are still formidable enough, there is no doubt 
that they have been greatly diminished since 
last year, and that the chances for success in 
mining are manifold better this season than 
they were last. The locality and character of 
the diggings are now understood ; the peculi- 
arities of the seasons and climate are known ; 
the Indian annoyances have ceased ; new routes 
have been opened, and steamboats placed on 
the rivers, adding security to life, and cheap- 
ening transportation and travel ; while com- 
fortable places of entertainment have been 
opened at all the central points, and at con- 
venient distances along the principal thorough- 
fares. Of provisions, if not over cheap and 
abundant, there will always be a sufficient 
supply to insure the miner from starvation, 
and at reasonable prices. Lumber, an article 
so necessary for successful mining, will here- 
after be procurable, as also will fresh vegeta- 
bles, on a due supply of which health is so de- 
pendant; ditches and reservoirs will be, and to 
some extent have already been constructed, 
affording a steady and ample supply of water 
on bars where otherwise nothing could be 
done. Men becoming familiar with the periods 
of high and low water, will be able to take 
advantage of the same for the purpose of min- 
ing ; while acquaintance with the eddies and 
rapids will enable tiem to avoid many of the 
dangers of river navigation. Trade monopo- 
lies, so far as any existed, having ceased, and 
mining licenses having been practically abro- 
gated ; what with courts and peace officers at 
all the more populous points, and the prospect 
of escorts for the transportation, with places of 
deposit for the safe keeping of the miner's gold 
dust, we cannot see what ground there can be 
for complaint as to existing regulations, or the 
manner in which life and property are protect- 
ed in these mines. 

Comparin^this year with'last, there is hardly 
a single view in which the mining interest and 
the prospect for success has not greatly chang- 
ed for the better. This is not said with the 
remotest view to encouraging parties who may 



have a tolerable business or situation, or even 
a good prospect of such in California, to leave 
the same and repxirto these distant gold fields 
in the hope of bettering their condition. Let 
no one who has a living business here, or em- 
ployment at fair wages, or the means of secur- 
ing either, think for a moment of abandoning 
the same and resorting to Fraser river. We are 
not writing for such. Neit her are we writing 
for speculators and traders, or the non-produc- 
ing fraternity, who seek to live by their wits 
rather than hard work. To this class the in- 
ducements for migrating northward are indeed 
slender. But to the ill-rewarded hard worker, 
the unemployed, to all such in fact as come 
within the category before mentioned, we have 
thought fit to say British Columbia opens, per- 
haps, for you as good a labor-field just now as 
California ; venturing to indicate, at the same 
time, the improved condition of things in that 
quarter as warranting the suggestion. In tne 
opinion that these mines will better reward any 
class of laborers whatever, than those of our 
State, we may be mistaken ; but there is little 
ground for mistake in what has been said as to 
the increased facilities for travel, and the im- 
proved chances for success this season as com- 
pared with the past. If we examine the con- 
dition and progress of affairs last year a little 
more in detail, the truth of this remark becomes 
fully apparent. 

In the first place, a large proportion of the 
miners, on reaching Victoria, were delayed at 
that point a long time ; some waiting for the 
river to fall, but more because they were una- 
ble to proceed, either from want of means to 
go on the steamers, or the inability of , the lat- 
ter to carry them. Here 'ibey idled away their 
time doing nothing, or engaged in building 
boats in which, when completed, they embark- 
ed for the mines. These craft being small and 
badly constructed, and as a general thing, still 
more badly navigated, met with many disasters', 
often of a fatal character, in crossing the gulf 
or attempting to ascend the rivers, and were 
no longer ot Uny value after the owner had 
reached his point of destination, Taking into 
the account the original cost of these boats 
and canoes, varying from fifty to a hundred 
dollars each, together with the loss of time and 
property, to say nothing of life, occasioned by 
this species of navigation, the damage sus- 
tained by the miner in being forced to resort 
to it, was incalculable. 

Having reached the mines, or, rather, got as 
far up the river as practicable, the adventurer 
found all the bars worth working completely 
occupied or under water. Thus conditioned, 
he had either to return, remain an indefinite 
period doing nothing, or attempt forcing his 
way further up. A majority chose to come 
back; many staid until the water went down 
— a part doing well and a part very little, 
owing to the impossibility of all getting claims. 
Of those who pushed on to the Upper Fraser, 
some going by the Brigade Trail, and others 
through the caiions, or over the Lilooett route, 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE. RESOURCES, <fec. 



17 



all arrived so utterly impoverished, or com- 
pletely broken down, as to be unfit to do any- 
thing. Setting out with scanty stores, these 
had become exhausted by the length of time 
they were on the way, or been taken from them 
by the Indians. Yet, living on fish and berries, 
such of these men as had fortitude to remain 
and make a trial, nearly all did well, some 
taking out large sums of gold, though having 
only the most rude and imperfect implements 
to work with. When, later in the season, 
provisions began to come in, prices ranged 
from one to two dollars a pound — yet so good 
were the diggings that the miners were vastly 
more concerned about the supply than the 
price. And so these men on the Upper Fraser 
lingered on through the fall, waiting impa- 
tiently for the completion of the new Lilooett 
trail, when it was expected provisions would 
be more abundant and cheap. This work, 
however, not being finished until too late to 
get in supplies for the winter, nearly the en- 
tire population was obliged to vacate this 
region on the arrival of cold weather. 

And here, again, is another item, which in 
estimating the value of these mines by the 
yield of last season should be set down to their 
credit. In the prosecution of this valuable 
improvement, over five hundred men were ab- 
stracted from the mining population and 
kept on this work throughout the entire 
season. A good many were, also, in like man- 
ner engaged opening trails along the Fraser, 
or elsewhere, or in other pursuits foreign to 
the business of mining. This, with the extent 
to which labor was diverted for the purpose of 
building boats, digging ditches, chastising the 
Indians, and various other objects, taken in 
connection with the fact that much time was 
foolishly lost in waiting for the falling of the 
water, and the additional fact that mining 
operations were mostly confined to the Lower 
Fraser, the mere entrance to the mines, all 
goes to show that large allowance should bo 
made when calculating the aggregate yield of 
these mines the past season. 

As has been said, many of these serious in- 
terferences with mining industry, as well as 
much of the heavy expense alluded to, may be 
avoided the present season. The miner, on 
reaching Victoria, can proceed at once, and a 
small cost, directly to the head of steamboat 
navigation on comfortable steamers, a number 
of which are already on the route, while one 
of our first class Sacramento river boats is 
about leaving to be employed in the same ser- 
vice. With these accommodations the vex- 
atious and ruinous delays at Victoria, the dan- 
gerous passage of the Gulf, with the tedious 
toilsome, and still more perilous ascent of tlie 
rivers, with the hard work, exposure and ex- 
pense incident to travel on this part of the 
journey in the early day, will be avoided. The 
portages will also be made the present season 
with much greater expedition, comfort and 
economy than before, as a sufficient number of 
animals will, no doubt, be brought upon them 



: as soon as required. This seems proba6ie 
from the fact that over three hundred pack 
animals were wintered at Bonaparte river, for 
the purpose of being placed on the Lilooett 
route this spring, while a considerable num- 
ber have been shipped from San Francisco, 
and several trains have set out from Oregon 
for the same destination. With these facili- 
ties, then, for reaching the centre of the Fraser 
gold fields, with the Indian tribes pacified or 
overawed, and a boundless extent of virgin 
mines stretched out in every direction, it 
would seem as if good wages ought to be made 
there this summer, notwithstanding provisions 
may be high, and other expenses somewhat 
greater than in California. For the benefit of 
such as may feel inclined to try their fortune 
in that quarter, the best routes to be taken 
will next be pointed out, to be followed by a 
notice of the mining rules and regulations in 
force, and a few practical observations of a 
general character. 

ROUTE.S TO THE INTEROR. 

Parties bound to the Upper Fraser, that is to 
say any {)oint over thirty or forty miles above 
Thompson's Fork, should go by the way of the 
new Lilooet route, as being not only the mosi 
safe and expeditious, but also the cheapest. 
In fact the route by the river, ascending 
through the caiions, is nearly impracticable 
expect at a low stage of water, and even then 
is attended with much danger and delay, there 
being several portages where not only the 
cargo but the boat itself has to be lifted from 
the water carried over the rocks, and 
launched above the rapids. A trail has been 
commenced between Fort Yale and the Forks, 
which, when completed, as it will be this sum- 
mer, will afford tolerable facilities for travel 
betw-een these two points. In going to the 
vicinity of the Forks this trail or the river 
must necessarily be taken, but in going to the 
upper country, to which the great mass of the 
mining population must repair to find profi- 
table employment, the route indicated should 
be chosen. The diggings below Thompson 
river, being mostly confined to the bars along 
the Fraser, have not capacity to employ more 
than four or five thousand men, while that 
portion of them below the canons, and to which 
nearly the entire population was restricted last 
summer, would scarcely afford room for two 
thirds that number. Hence, in the cent of 
any large influx of people, a majority would 
be obliged to betake themselves to the Upper 
Fraser. 

Supposing this his point of destination, then, 
the miner takes the steamer at Victoria and 
proceeding to Langly, or such other point as 
this steamer connects with the lighter draft 
boats running above, he is there transferred to 
the latter, which carry him to Port Douglas, at 
the head of steamboat navigation. The dis- 
tances on the route thus past over are as fol- 
lows : F"rom Victoria due north, to the mouth 
of Fraser river, passing through the canal 
de Harro, 65 miles ; from the month of the 



u 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



river to Fort Largley, 25 miles ; thence to 
the mouth of Harrison river 35 miles ; up Har- 
rison river 7, aud across Harrison lake to Port 
Douglas, 43 miles ; making the entire distance 
of stea'Tiboat travel 175 miles. The time re- 
q'.iired to make this distance by steamer is 
about two days — less if the Gulf be crossed 
during the night. With sail boats or canoes 
it is II' good passage if made in a week or ten 
il.iys ; hence the bad economy of attempting it 
m this sort of craft, to say nothing of danger, 
must be obvious to the most inexperienced 
m-iriner. At low water, steamboat navigation 
• ■s somewhat interfered with on the Harrison 
river by a series of shoals, which at sucli times 
causing rapids, it is difficult for even the light- 
est draft steamers to ascend. At all other sea- 
sons such boats go up with the greatest facil- 
ity, there being plenty of water, and the current 
scarcely perceptible. The Government has 
usatured a plan for obviating this difficulty, 
wJiich will be carried into etfect the coming 
.sntunm. Across the first portage from Port 
Dougl.is to Lake Lilooett, 35 miles, there is a 
tiMiIe trail. This trail, constructed last year at 
a heavy cost to the Colonial Government, leads 
through a dense wilderness, and being gene- 
rally in good ccnditioa, can be crossed by pack 
trains in about two days. Over this part of 
(lie route there is canoe navigation, by means 
of the Lillooet triver, connecting Harrison and 
Lillooett lake. But it is difficult and hazard- 
ous, especially when the stream is high, and 
many lives were lost, last summer, in attempts 
to ascend it; but there was then no other mode 
of getting over this portage, there being not 
even an Indian path across it. Now it is other- 
wise, and though packing is rather high aj 
))rc.se!'.t, it will no doubt be reduced as the sea- 
son advances, and should in no event tempt 
parties to try the dangerous alternative offered 
by the navigation of this fatal river. The price 
of packing over this portage, last season, was 
eight cents a pound ; this year it will probably 
be less, as the number of animals will be great- 
ly increased. The cause of these high rates 
was the scarcity, or rather entire absence of 
grass in this vicinity, compelling the owners of 
Rnimals to purchase hay and grain, at heavy 
expense, for their subsistence. 

Having reached Lilooett Lake, travelers are 
passed over in small boats, animals and large 
lots of goods in scows — passage $2, freight 
half cent a pound. The modes of conveyance 
«nd the prices charged on all the lakes, of 
which there are iSree along this line, are the 
same. From Lake Lilooett to Lake Anderson, 
25 miles, is another mule trail. Packing, 
however, ou this is much less than on the 
other, the distance being shorter, the road 
easier, and feed more plentiful. At the south 
end of this portage are the Lilooett Meadows, 
consisiing of several thousand acres of mag- 
nificent prarie land covered with a heavy 
growth of grass, fit alike for haymaking or 
pasturage. Approaching the other end, the 
forest begins to open and bunch grass shows 
itself in considerable quantities, affording 



ample feed for stock, and rendering their keep 
much less costly than on the first portage. 
This part of tue journey can be made comfort- 
ably in a day and a half or even a day by 
footmen, the road, tor the most part, always 
being in good condition. Having crossed this 
portage, we arrive at Lake Anderson, 16 miles 
long. Over it, next comes the short portage, 
one and a fourth mile long, with a wagon road 
and a team in readiness to convey freight over 
at the same rate as on the lakes. Having 
crossed it, the traveller is brought to the last 
and largest lake of the gaetip, being Lake 
Seton, 18 miles long, and extending to within 
four miles of Fraser river. From its foot, good 
trails extend in every direction into the mines, 
and all parts of the interior. Here also ani- 
mals can be procured at low rates for packing, 
large bands being constantly kept for that 
purpose. Though the cost of transporting 
goods will vary with dist'ance, it is uniformly 
less here than along the route further south, 
since at this point animals coming in from 
Oregon accumulate, and grass is abundant, 
growing not only in the bottoms, but also ou 
the prairies, and even against the sides of the 
mountains. Traveling and packing through 
this region is not at all difficult, the country 
being open and the trails keeping along on the 
table lands, often for miles without interrup- 
tion. 

But having piloted the miner thus far, ho 
may safely be left to shift for himself, since he 
is now over the most difficult part of his jour- 
ney, and pretty well advanced into what may 
be considered the gold fields, proper of British 
Columbia. Indeed, when he shall have ar- 
rived at the terminus of the Lilooett route he 
will be, longitudinally, at the centre of the 
Fraser river mines, with, at least, one hundred 
and fifty miles of auriferous country to the 
north, and fully as far above the first digging.^ 
met with in ascending the river. Here in the 
enjoyment of a healthful and invigorating cli- 
mate ; with an atmosphere exempt from sud- 
den change of temperature and undisturbed 
by storms ; encouraged by liberal mining re- 
gulations, and protected by impartial laws ; 
in the midst of a beautiful open country and 
wide-spread virgin mines, the adventurer may 
reasonably anticipate a success commensurate 
with his efforts, and rray justly consider him- 
self unfortunate if he fails to reap an ample 
reward for all his loss of time, his heavy ex- 
pens and toil. 

LIBERAL POLICY TO BE I'UUSUKD. 

As has been stated, England, no doubt, 
entertains the purpose of carrying out a variety 
of grand projects in her British American 
possessions. The consummation of these 
plans will, from their very nature, involve a 
necessity for populating as speedily as practi- 
cable her territories on the North Pacific. As a 
means of hastening that end, she will be im- 
pelled to the adoption of a liberal policy in 
governing the colonies about springing up in 
that region. This she has signified her inten- 
tion of doing, in the most open and positive 



ITS SOIL, CLLMATE, RESOURCES, Ac- 



id 



manner, and not satisfied that the world sliotild 
remain in doubt as to these her beneficent de- 
signs, or be left to infer them from any vague 
and apocryphal authority, the Colonial Secre- 
tary, speaking the sentiments of the home gov- 
ernment, has enjoined on the representative of 
the crown in that quarter a strict compliance 
with these views in all his official conduct and 
transactions. And not on a single occasion 
only, have the instructions of this functionary 
been made to embody these the desires of the 
Imperial Parliament on this subject. The 
entire dispatches issued from his ofiice breathe 
the same spirit, revealing the earnest wish of 
the government in the premises, and giving 
assurance that a broad and generous policy is 
to be impressed on the administration of pub- 
lic affairs in these provinces. The system of 
measures already initiated for the regulation 
of trade, the management of the mines, the 
disposition of the public lands, and the protec- 
tion of the various leading interests, are such 
as will be likely to invite capital, foster indus- 
try, stimulate enterprise, encourage immigra- 
ti<m, and lead to a speedy development of the 
re;!ources, and a rapid and permanent settle- 
ment of the country. In all their public acts, 
it must be conceded the home government has 
thus far evinced an earnest desire and a firm 
determination to advance the prosperity of 
these colonies, securing to their inhabitants 
all those civil rights which the English so emi- 
nently enjoy, and conceding to them the 
largest political liberty compatible with their 
position as a dependencj' of the empire. Nor is 
this liberal policy to be confined in its opera 
tion to her own people. England welcomes 
to these colonies every class of foreigners, 
guaranteeing them the same social, commercial 
and industrial privileges as secured to her own 
citizens, and that whether they come as mere 
adventurers, or with a view to permanent set- 
tlement. Especially has this kind and concili- 
atory disposition been evinced towards Amer- 
icans, who have been particularized as a de- 
sirable population, on account of their experi- 
ence in mining, and their usually industrious 
and energetic habits. So solicitous has the 
government seemed for the maintenance of a 
good understanding with this class, that the 
authorities, more particularly the naval forces, 
have been cautioned against indulging in any 
undue display of power, or the wanton com- 
mission of any act calculated to awaken oi>po- 
(iilion, orlead to a conflict between themselves 
and those of a dififerent nationality. It is also 
suggested in this connection that the Governor, 
availing himself of his influence and popularity 
with the Americans, might readily induce 
them to cooperate with him at all times in 
enforcing the law and preserving order ; and 
furthermore, that since the adoption of a more 
popular mode of governing may soon be ren- 
dered expedient, it would be well for that offi- 
cial to provide for the election of a legislative 
assembly, and call to his aid a council, part of 
which should be composed of miners, chosen 
by themselves. These declarations of the 



mother country, so oft repeated and positive, 
sufficiently foreshadow her purposes in regast! 
to these colonies, and may be taken as an 
earnest of the policy to be observed in the 
future conduct of their affairs. Certain it b, 
reposing in these assurances, the emigrant may 
repair thither confident that he will be ani- 
plied protected and fairly dealt with, wliile 
every facility will be afTordcd him to engage in 
mining, or acijuire a portion of the public 
lands, with a prospect of participating to some 
extent in framing the laws and regulations by 
which he shall be governed. 

LICKNSES, DUTIKS, SUKKKRANCK.S, AC. 

This entire class of iuijiosts and permits were 
levied or allowed by Gov. Douglas, in his two- 
fold capacity as Agent of the Hudson's B.-iy 
Company, and representative of the Crown. 
Thus, the license to mine, the permission to 
import goods, and the sufferance to navigate 
the inland waters of British Columf)ia, were 
granted by virtue of his viceroyal character, 
and the funds accruing formed a j>art of the 
public revenue. This fact is announced in his 
proclamation on the subject, wherein liestatea 
that these duties are imposed by virtue of au- 
thority duly conferred upon him, and for the 
purpose of providing means to defray the pub- 
lic expenses of the Colony. Head-money, 
licen es to trade, &c., are presumed to have, 
been exacted by the Governor in his capacity 
as the executive of the Company, under warract 
of their claim to the exclusive right to trade in 
the territory, and of their being in the legal 
possession of the same. It is true, the validity 
of this claim has constituted the subject of 
much popular discussion, speculation ard 
complaint, but the fact that its exercise ha« 
been acquiesced in by the Ciovernment for ho 
many years, seems a virtual acknowledgment 
of its genuineness, a conclusion at which those 
adversely interested in the question would 
seem to have arrived, since no legal nieasureg 
have ever been taken for testing its soundness, 
not even the law officers of the Crown being 
willing to institute pro(^eedings for that juir- 
pose, on Government account. 

The Company argue that the clause; in tiic'r 
charter, conferring upon them the e\c!u=iiv<; 
right of trade with the Indians, extends by 
implication also to the whites, the latter not 
being mentioned, though intended, fur the 
reason that there were at the time no wiiites in 
the territory thus subjected to their jurisdic- 
tion ; and, that at all events, the exercise of 
this right carries with it the force of law from 
long and uninterrupted usage. Be that as it 
may, it is now too late to call in question tho 
legality of these acts, or to insist that tlir-y 
were in their nature usurpations or exactio::8, 
since whatever there may have been in them 
illegitimate and informal, has been cured and 
legalized by subsequent proclamations of tf;e 
Executive, sanctioned by the Home Govern- 
ment. 

The amount of head money charged by the 
Company was $2, for every person entering 
the mines. This, however, with all trade lieen- 



20 



BRITISH COLUMBIA. 



ses. except such as spring from municipal reg- ; 
uiations, being now discontinued, requires no \ 
further notice. The following is the schedule i 
of duties payable on goods imported into Brit- 
ish Columbia. All kinds of fresh meat, fish, j 
fruits and vegetables, lumber, hay, quicksilver, | 
poultry and live stock ; all sorts of farming i 
laiplements, seeds, plants, salt, books and pa- I 
ners, cloths, baggage, professional implements, j 
&c., are admitted free of duties. On all other j 
articles a ten per cent, ad valorem duty is 
charged, with the following exceptions : Flour 
50 cts. on every 196 lbs. ; beans and peas 12.} 
eto. on every 100 lbs., and every kind of grain 
to be used as food, one-half that amount. 
Liquors are required to pay a duty of §il per 
gallon ; wines 50 cts.; ale, beer, porter, and 
cider 12^ cts. Victoria and Esquimalt being 
fcee port's, all goods landed there are exempt 
from duty, vessels simply paying the ordinary 
port charges. Vessels destined for British 
Columbia can pay the duties at either of these 
ports, or proceed direct to Qneenborough, on 
Fraser river, which is now a port of entry, 
a:id make payment there. 

Touching the sufferance extended to foreign 
bottoms, allowing them to enter Fraser river. 
Governor Douglas in the exercise of the discre- 
tionary powers conferred upon him, so far in- 
terfered with the navigation laws of England 
as to permit steamers and large vessels, what- 
ever their flag, to clear for Fort Langley on 
payment of $12 each trip, small boats $6, a 
course in which he was amply justified by the 
pressure of circumstances and the exigencies 
of the times. As a condition, steamers were 
required to pay the Company $2 head-money, 
for each passenger they should carry; to stip- 
ulate that they would convey none who had 
not taken out a mining license and paid $5. 
being one month's advance thereon, and also 
that they would carry no goods except those of 
the Company or such as they might permit. 

For the privilege of entering the mines every 
person was required to pay a royalty of $5 a 
month. But this, as was also the case with 
head-money, was not very rigidly enforced. 
Passengers proceeding to Fraser river on the 
steamers were obliged to pay these dues, the 
vessel being held accountable therefor, but in 
most other cases they were evaded, and in very 
few instances was more than one month's li- 
cense ever paid. Hereafter, it is probable, this 
impost will be entirely dispensed with, an ex- 
port duty being substituted in accordance with 
the popular desire, and in compliance with a 
suggestion of the Home Goverment to that ef- 
fect. 

MINING RULES AND REGULATIONS. 

For the purpose of making temporary rules 
aad regulations, and carrying out such per- 
manent ones as government may determine 
upon, a Crown Commissioner for the gold- 
fieids has been appointed, having a requisite 
number of assistants. The size of raining 
claims was in the first instance fixed by gov- 
erament, being limited to 144 square feet to 



each person. The object of restricting the 
miners to so small an area was that they might 
be kept in as compact bodies as possible, since 
they could thus more easily be supplied with 
provisions, and the better protect themselves 
against the Indians. Subsequently these 
limits were enlarged, and the size of claims 
fixed at 25 feet frontage in rivers, and 25 feet 
of the bed of a creek or ravine, and 20 feet 
square of a table land or flats, to each person. 
These regulations, however, have been but 
little regarded, the miners going on and fixing 
the size of their claims, and establishing such 
rules for holding and working them as they 
deemed expedient, a practice with which the 
Commissioner and his assistants have not in- 
terfered to any great extent. It is probable 
however, that the authorities will assume a 
greater control when affairs shall become a 
little more settled, introducinga comprehensive 
and well digested system, based upon a general 
survey of the gold fields, and made to conform 
to that now in force in Australia, with such 
modifications as experience may suggest or 
circumstances require. 

Indeed, the Governor has been instructed by 
the Colonial Secretary to see that a proper 
system for managing and working the mines 
be devised and brought into force to the end 
that this branch of industry be controlled by 
uniform and well-known rules, rather than by 
a variety of local regulations, dependent on 
usage and chance. In maturing this system 
he has been advised to avail hinselfof the 
services of Chief Justice Bigbie, and to call to 
his aid a number of miners, to the end that he 
may have the benefit of the legal learning of 
the one and the practical experience of the 
other, and thus construct a mining code which, 
while it shall duly guard the rights of the 
Crown, will secure to the miner every possible 
advantage. In this manner apian would, no 
doubt, be instituted, which, from its uniform- 
ity and stability, would prove alike satisfactory 
to labor and capital. On the whole it may 
fairly be concluded that a liberal policy will 
be adopted, and that government interference, 
so far as exerted, will be for the convenience 
and protection of the miner. 

NATURAL HISTORY AND PRODUCTS. 

!!^Although British Columbia affords a grand 
field for the explorations of the traveler and 
the study of the artist, it holds out little induc- 
ment to the student of Natural History, the 
absence of nearly every kind of animal life be- 
ing strikingly apparent. One may travel for 
days through the woods, or over the plains 
and lakes and scarcely see a living thing, 
except, perhaps, fish, which only at certain 
seasons are abundant. These remarks, how- 
ever, only apply to the interior, since along 
the sea shore animated nature is more prolific, 
the waters being in every species of marine 
production especially abundant. Amongst the 
land animals the principal kinds met with are 
deer, of several varities, the elk, bear — both 
black and grizzly — panther, lynx, wild-cat, 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



21 



wolf, and mountain sheep. The latter is a 
large animal weighing, when full grown, sev- 
eral hundred pounds. It is covered with long 
hair, resembling coarse wool, and supplied 
with enormous crooked horns, upon which it 
is said to strike when throwing itself from 
precipices in seeking to escape pursuit. 

The flesh is esteemed equal to that of the 
domesticated sheep, but it is rarely the hunter 
makes a prize of one, or even gets a sight of 
them, they being exceedingly solitary in their 
habits, keeping always on the tops of the most 
wild and rugged mountains. Even when the 
snows fall deep, they do not come down as do 
other animals, seeking the milder climate and 
more abundant feed of the valleys. There are 
also foxes, marmots, rabbits, minks and mar- 
tins, and along the streams beaver and otter, 
though these animals are now very scarce, as 
well as shy, having been so much hunted for 
their peltries and furs. Amongst the inferior 
animals are skunks, squirrels, mice and a sin- 
gular species of bush-tailed rat, said to be 
naturally mischievous, a reputation it seems 
ambitious to deserve, meddling with everything 
about the traveler's camp at night, and run- 
ning over his person with the greatest famili- 
arity. These easy habits are probably owing 
to the immunity from harm guaranteed it by 
the Indian, who scruples not to feed upon every 
other form of animated matter, save only the 
rat and the raven. These, owing to a natural 
repugnance, or more likely in his case, to some 
superstitious notion, the Indian never eats, 
even in his extremest need. 

While animals are scarce in this region, of 
birds it may be said there are almost none, 
since, with the exception of water-fowl, you 
may not see one in a day's travel. Geese, ducks, 
swans and brant, however, gather in clouds 
about the lakes, and inlets, in the proper sea- 
son. Pelicans, cranes and loons are also to be 
found aboutthese places at all times. Of the feath- 
ered tribe, are occasionally seen the eagle, hawk, 
cormorant and raven. Owls are at times heard, 
but not often. There are, also, a few wood- 
peckers, bluejays, larks and a small dusky 
ground-bird, with a few quail, and a good 
many grouse, the latter always fat and tender. 
The raven resembles that of California, being 
large, and uttering the same harsh croak. 
Near the sea, gulls and several other kinds of 
aquatic animals hover about in great numbers, 
affording the natives much acceptable food by 
means of their flesh and eggs. The pelican 
being a clumsey bird, also falls an easy prey to 
the Indian. 

Fish, small and of an inferior kind, are plen- 
tiful in the lakes and streams at all seasons, 
but salmon, the only really valuable fish, is 
abundant only from June till September, 
being best and most numerous in August. 
This is a most delicious fish, being large, rich 
and oily, easily caught and readily cured, 
and hence most valuable both for the white 
and Indian. An inferior kind of salmon is 
taken during the fall months, called the hook- 
bill, from its having a beak like » parrot. 



It has small, sharp teeth, is covered with livid 
spots, and its flesh is soft and flabby. The 
whites do not care to eat it, nor is it much rel- 
ished by the natives. Fine trout is caught in 
the streams during winter. The Indians 
adopt various plans for taking the larger fish, 
spearing, the wier and basket being the most 
common. A small species of smelt, but little 
worth, swarms in some places ; sturgeon of 
large size and excellent quality are frequently 
caught in the Fraser. In Lake Okinagan, and 
in all the streams along the Oregon trail, 
trout weighing from one to two pounds and of 
fine flavor, are caught with the greatest 
ease, men taking them out with nets by the 
wagon load, and by wading into the water, 
catching them with their hands without diffi- 
culty. In the inlets and all tide waters, fish 
of every variety abound in incredible quan- 
tities; nor are oysters, clams, mussels, or any 
other kind of shell fish wanting. Of reptiles 
and insects, except mosquitoes, confined to the 
Lower Fraser, and a few other localities, Brit- 
ish Columbia has but few. There are some 
rattle snakes, with a few others of a more 
harmless kind. The lizzard seen in Califor- 
nia, is not common, nor is the tarrantula, or 
centipede met with. Indeed, the whole coun- 
try is remarkably exempt from both animals 
and reptiles of a hurtful or obnoxious kind, 
being in this respect, if no other, a very de- 
sirable abode for man. 

TREES, PLANTS, FRUITS, <tC. 

The Southern, which may also be called the 
rainy portion of British Columbia, is a densely 
wooded country, both the mountains and plains, 
with the exception of a few inconsiderable 
prairies, being covered with thick and stately 
forests. So closely do the trees stand, and 
withal so tall and straight, that the united- 
navy yards of the world might draw thence 
their supplies for years, without more than 
partially exhausting these spacious and majes- 
tic forests. To the north and east there is less 
timber, the country being open and the only 
wood met with, except in the bottoms, being a 
species of pitch pine scattered sparsely over its 
surface. It never grows large, being not over 
a foot or two in diameter, and is not much es- 
teemed for making lumber, though being 
straight and of suitable size, it is very conve- 
nient for building log cabins and for similar 
uses. Many of the prairies in these sections 
are entirely destitute of trees, although the 
growth along the streams is in most places 
abundant and varied. The prevailing timber 
everj'where is pine, fir and spruce, of different 
varieties, with hemlock and cedar, and a small 
sprinkling of birch, oak, ash, yew and maple. 
In the swamps and along the water courses 
willow, alder, cotton-wood and balm of Gilead 
are found ; the latter always attracting notice, 
its unctuous buds glittering with healing gum 
and filling the air with balmy fragrance. To 
this tree the native tribes, as have the whites 
from the earliest ages, ascribe many medicinal 
virtues, assigning it an important place in their 
pharmacy. It here grows to a majestic size. 



5^2 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



The alder also grows up into a tall slender 
tree, free from limbs, and hence useful for 
fencing purposes and easily cut into fire-wood. 
The yew, very scarce, is a hard, tough wood, 
resembling hickory. The Indian uses it for his 
bow, and the white man for pick and axe helves, 
it being about the only stuff found in the coun- 
try suitable for these and similar purposes. 
The maple and ash are both of the soft varie- 
ties and fit for little else than fence and fire- 
wood. The bark of the birch is full of a re- 
sinous substance, which readily igniting and 
burning with a bright blaze, is used by the In- 
dians for kindling fires and for torches. From 
the cedar rails, shingles, and even clapboards, 
are easily split; while the spruceand fir, the lat- 
ter also called Oregon fir and Douglas pine, af- 
ford the best material for piles, spars and every 
species of lumber. The oak being the same as 
that found in California, is mostly confined to 
the country east of the Cascades, and even there 
it is not abundant. The redwood, or anything 
resembling it nearer than cedar, does not grow 
in British Columbia. Everywhere the size of 
the timber varies with altitude ; that in the 
lower valleys being of gigantic dimensions, 
and dwindling, as we ascend the mountains, 
into mere shrubbery, until, at a height of five 
or six thousand feet, we reach the limit of ve- 
getation — the line of eternal snow. 

Although British Columbia shows great pov- 
erty in the animal kingdom, the vegetable 
world is sufficiently varied and prolific. In- 
deed, it is not often, except in tropical cli- 
mates, that a richer botany is presented to the 
.student of nature. Flowering shrubs, escu- 
lent roots, medicinal plants, wild fruits and 
berries are everywhere abundant. In its 
Flora it strongly resembles California, the 
prairies being covered and the woods filled in 
the spring with the same superfluity of gor- 
geous flowers, though there, owing to the 
more timely rains, they are not so short lived 
as with us. Nearly everywhere in the forests, 
the wild lilac and the snow-drop, and on the 
plains, the wormwood and cactus are seen as 
in the southern portions of this State. For 
curative and like purposes, the natives make 
use of a great variety of plants, though the 
medicine-men rely much on their powers of 
exorcising — being simply the mesmeric influ- 
ence they are able to exert for driving away 
the skookums, or evil spirits, that are supposed 
to be the cause of disease and death. There 
are a variety of shrubs from which they make 
tea to be used as a beverage, and some of 
which, to the taste, is not unlike the drink 
made from the Chinese leaf. In the bark of 
the tender hemlock they find a remedy for 
diarrhoea, while the young sprouts of the 
raspberry, is eaten in the spring, for the pur- 
pose of correcting disorders of the blood. 
The leaf of the bear-ben-y is dried, either in 
the sun or over a fire, and then smoked in a 
pipe, being mixed with tobacco, when they 
have any. The effect produced, though very 
slight, is similar to that of tobacco, yet it does 
not taste at all like that substance, being in 



fact quite insipid and nearly tasteless. Of 
roots, the Indians have the potato, introduced 
amongst them by the English, and a variety 
indigenous to the country, the most valuable 
of which is the carumass, resembling a small 
white onion. Their potatoes, of which nearly 
every tribe raises some, are excellent, being of 
the species known as lady-fingers, that never 
fail to be dry and solid when grown in a 
proper soil. The wappatoo, the root of the 
fern, and of certain flags, some of which are 
not only palatable, but highly nutricious, are 
also baked and eaten. 

But of all the comestibles in the vegetable 
world, the most valuable to the Indian are the 
wild fruits and berries. On these, next to fish, 
he is morally dependant for subsistence, and 
fortunate for him it is, that they grow so plen- 
tiful, and last for so great a portion of the year. 
Of fruits, he has the wild plum and cherry, the 
crab-apple, the prickly-pear, and several 
other kinds ; while of berries, there is an al- 
most endless variety, including the strawberry 
and raspberry — coming earliest in the Spring — 
the blackberry, whortleberry, blueberry, scar- 
let currant, the gooseberry, bearberry, the sal- 
lal and many others; these being the kinds 
most common and abundant. Cranberries, 
also, abound in the marshy places. Of all these 
the sallal is perhaps the most acceptable 
and serviceable to the Indian, as it is 
easily gathered, very nourishing, readily 
preserved by means of drying, and lasts 
the latest in the season — lianging on the 
bushes until December. The leaves of the 
bearberry are dried, as above mentioned, and 
used as tobacco, being then called guer-lo-e- 
chintl. There is also a singular fruit called the 
Oregon grape, growing on a low bush, having 
serrated prickly leaves. It is worthy of men- 
tion only as a curiosity, being so sour, even 
when ripe, that nothing can eat it. The fore- 
going, by no means fill the catalogue of fruits, 
and berries growing wild in British Columbia, 
yet they serve to show that nature has been 
generous in this department, and prove that 
the Indian, thus supplied, but for his indolent 
and improvident habits never need want, much 
sess perish, as he sometimes does, through 
Iheer starvation, during the season of winter. 

GRASSES. 

The indigenous grasses of British Columbia 
are very similar to those found native in Cali- 
fornia. Wild timothy or prairie grass, some- 
times mixed with clover, covers the rich bot- 
toms and prairies to the south, bunch grass 
growing with the greatest luxuriance, even to 
the tops of the mountains, throughout all the 
open country. Swamp grass of different kinds, 
some being fine and nutricious, others almost 
as coarse as tules, abounds along the borders 
of the lakes and in other marshy places. On 
the Smass prairies about 30 miles southeast 
of Fort Langley, are many thousand acres 
covered with wild timothy and other nourish- 
ing grasses, from which hay of excellent qual- 
ity could be made with the greatest facility, 
the growth being very thick and standing four 



I 



ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, &c. 



23 



or five feet high. Alonpj the Chilliwbaock, :i 
small river entering the Fraser live miles be- 
low the mouth of the Harrison, are also fine 
opportunities for cutting hny, the grass being 
equally as good, though not so much of it as on 
the Smass. Hay cut here could easily be got 
to market — the Chilliwhaoik being navigable 
for light draft boats for some distance. The 
best place, however, for making hay, market 
and facilities for cuttitig/being considered, is 
the Liluoett meadows, at the head of the Lil- 
ooett lake. Here the grass is equally as good, 
and nearly as abundant as at the Smass, while 
the great number of pack animals employed 
will always create a demand for it at remuner- 
ative prices. The soil on all these prairies 
consists of a rich sandy loom, rendering them 
the most valuable districts for agricultural 
purposes of any in the Colony, except, perhajis, 
some of the valleys in country of the Similk- 
araeen and the Okinagan, a region that has 
advanced much in importance since the recent 
ascent of thefColumbia to Priest's llapids by 
the steamer Col. Wright on her late trial trip, 
an event of consequence to the entire country 
east of the Dalls, and particularly to that un- 
der consideration, the head of steamboat navi- 
gation having thus been brought within a 
sFlort distance of Fort Okinagan. All these 
fine tracts of land offer great inducements to 
settlers, they being equally adapted to the 
raising of grain and stock, govtrnment"allow- 
ing them to be occupied until such time as 
they can be surveyed and brought into mar- 
ket. Cattle require no feed here during the 
winter, except such as they can themselves 
pick, while grains and fruits of every descrip- 
tion grow with as much thrift and as little cul- 
ture as in any other part of the world. 

MINERALS. 

Although gold at present forms the most at- 
tractive, as well as the most ready source of 
wealth in British Columbia, it by no means 
constitutes the only valuable mineral in the 
country. A great variety of other metals, 
though as yet but little sought for, have been 
met with, some in quantities indicating large 
deposits. Silver ore of the richest quality, has 
been found at several localities, portions of 
which, on being analyzed have shown ninety 
per cent, of pure silver. At two points on the 
Lilooett river, and also at a i)Iacc near Kam- 
loops, ore of this description has been taken 
from veins cropping out at the surface. On 
the east bank of the Lilooett river, at the outlet 
of the Little lake, is a silver vein of large size, 
well known to the Indians in the vicinity, and 
from which a Mexican, a man of scientific at- 
tainments, and well versed in the working of 
silver mines, took several specimens last fall, 
pronouncing them unusually rich. Specimens 
of copper, nearly virgin, have been obtained on 
the Fraser, above the Fountain, and on the 
river opposite that place, lignite, or bituminous 
wood, of the earthy variety, exists in such quan- 
tities as to have been used by the miners for 
fuel. It is found in detached pieces, worn 
round like pebbles ; is of a brownish-black 



color, nearly as light as water, very friable, 
and burns freely ; when blown it sends forth a 
light blaze, whence it would probably be use- 
ful for blacksmithing purposes. Iron, coal, 
and traces of cinnabar are frequently met 
with. 

Platinum, agates, cornelians, and quartz, 
both crystalized and massive, occur, in all 
parts of the interior. Excellent lime-stone, 
marble of t!ic purest variety and very accessi- 
ble, granite and many other varieties of build- 
ing stone are common. But since this class of 
productions cannot be rendered immediately 
available, as agents of wealth, it will hardly 
be necessarj' to enumerate them more fully at 
present. 

Mineral and warm springs are features of 
the country. One of the latter, on the trail, 22 
miles from Port Douglass, on the Lilooett trail, 
has been found highly beneficial, in cases of 
dispoeptia and rheumatism. The water, in a 
volume of about four square inches, issues 
from a conglomerate rock, at a temperature of 
190°, with a gurgling sound, coming at inter- 
vals from the interior of the rock. The water 
smells of sulphur, and is slightly impregnated 
with magnesia, lime, salt, etc. The Indians 
resort to this spring at all times, bathing in. 
and drinking freely of the water, having, to all 
appearance, great faith in its remedial proper- 
ties. 

THK MINES AND MINING PROSPECTS. 

Before concluding the present series of arti- 
cles, it may perhaps be well to make some fur- 
ther mention of the gold deposits in British 
Columbia, and to inquire after the mining 
prospects the ensuing summer, as based on the 
latest and most reliable intelligence from that 
quarter. Space will not permit of any detailed 
statements or lengthened investigation of this 
subject at present; yet, as the shipments of 
gold dust out of the country, may be consider- 
ed a very fair index of mining prosperity, let 
the sums transmitted through the two Express 
companies doing business in Victoria, for tiie 
month of April, being the latest .statistics we 
have on the subject, be taken as evidence on 
that point. Between the 11th day of April, 
then, and the 10th day of Maj', these two 
houses brought down $195,000, on aicjunt of 
shippers. During the same period, it is esti- 
mated that .?75,000 additional, ctme in private 
hands, making 8270,000, exported from Victo- 
ria to this port, in these 30 days. Mean'ime, at 
least, $30,000 more was carried away, by the 
steamer Constitution, and by sailing vessels run- 
ning to different points on the Sound, in pay- 
ment of cattle, lumber, vegetables, and other 
commodities, largely imported into Victoria 
and British Columbia, from Oregon and Wash- 
ington Territory, giving a total of $300,000 ex- 
ported during the month of April, and which 
may be supposed to represent the product of 
the mines for the preceding month of March. 
If we further suppose there were $3,000 men — 
rather a high estimate — at work in the mines 
digging out this amount, and that they labored 
twenty out of the thirty-one days in that 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 

lllllllll 



017 516 359 



24 



BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



month — another high estimate, Sundays and 
stormy weather being deducted, this would 
give an average of $5 a day, to the man, a re- 
turn comparing favorably with the wages real- 
ized in our own mines ; while it will not be 
pretended, whatever other hardships men may 
have to endure, that the labor of mining is as 
severe in British Columbia as here, operations 
there being mostly confined to a foot or two of 
the top dirt. 

That a few should have returned from the 
Upper Fraser, dissatisfied, as is represented to 
have been the case, is not surprising, consider- 
ing that over two thousand hurried to that 
section in advance of supplies, and many of 
them before the winter was fairly over. It is 
obvious those who had already returned to 
V^ictoria, must have done most of their pros- 
pecting in the month of March, or early in the 
month of April, at a time when provisions were 
yet scarce and the cold weather had hardly 
abated. 

The following letter, one of several recently 
received from the Upper Fraser, will serve to 
illustrate the character of the diggings in that 
quarter, and to show in what estimation they 
are held by a practical miner, who has now 
been in that country over a year. The purport 
of the other letters is very similar to that of 
the one presented. Rocker Rouge, near which 
place the writer was encamped, is about 150 
miles above the Fountain, and 160 above De 
Rous' ranch, the place mentioned in this letter : 
Upper Fraser River, April, 1859. 

As you wished me to write if I went above 
mountain I send you a few lines by a man going 
down to Port Douglas after goods. I don't know 
the day of the month, but it is the last of April. We 
left Jo DeRushe's ranch about four weeks ago, and 
came up on the east side of the river, packed three 
horses, and were about a week coming up. Found 
ice on the trail coming down the steep hills and had 
to unload a number of times. We came by the 
slide, and found trouble getting by that place, and 
I would advise parties coming to go round, as there 
is an easier road by going a little further to the 
east. I have heard of a shorter route being found, 
keeping on the west side of the river and leaving 
it near Bridge river, an 1 taking a cut oflf back of 
the mountains, but I don't know how it is. We 
prospected some coming up and found a good show 
all along, but concluded not to stop, as we heard it 
was better up here. It is not much use to prospect, 
for the gold is too fine to save with a pan, and you 
cannot tell unless you work some with a rocker, and 
we did not want to stop and make one then. In 
some places we found coarse gold, but thought we had 
better come on to this place. This bar has no name; 
it is a little below what they call Rocher Rouge. 
While one of my partners and a Frenchman went 
above prospecting I stopped here with the other 
and cut down a tree and made a rocker, and we 
have worked eight or nine days, making eleven 
dollars a day to the band, but the gold is fine, and 
we loose a great deal ; with quicksilver, I think we 
could make an ounce. But the diggings are not 
deep, and I do not think will last long ; we only 
wash about a foot on the top, then the dirt grows 
poorer, but we have not tried it very deep yet, and 
there may be a layer of pay dirt below. With 
sluices big wages could be made here, for a while at 



least, but there are no saws, and the timber is very 
poor here, nothing much but poplar and cottonwood 
near the river. There is some scrubby pine back, 
but it is not much worth. The country here is not 
mountainous as on the Lower Fraser; it is sandy 
and knolls and hills, and plenty of grass and some 
good spots for farming. It is a very pleasant 
country, but hard to be reached, and I would not 
advise those in California who are doing well to 
leave to come here, for it is a long journey to come 
and costs a great deal, and then the seasons here 
are short, nothing to be done for four or five months 
in the winter. 

The cost of living, too, is great, nothing to be 
bought for less than a dollar a pound, and most 
things costing a dollar and a half, and in this cli- 
mate men eat a great deal. If we had to buy our 
provisions, I think it would cost us four or five 
dollars a day. We have enough to last six weeks, 
by which time we are in hopes goods will be 
cheaper. The high prices are now owing to pack- 
ing animals being scarce, though there will be 
several hundred horses on this route in a few days, 
when packing will be lower. There is plenty of 
grass here, and animals can be kept cheap. The 
Indians have a good many horses, but they ride 
them to death, and they are not fit for anything. 

My partner, who has been 25 or 30 miles above, 
found good prospects and larger gold, and we think 
it washes down, and that a better gold country 
must lay north of this. He says it is a beautiful 
country and more timber up there. We shall stop 
here and try to get in sluices, when I think we can 
double our present wages, though it may not pa}' to 
go to that expense unless the diggings prove 
deeper. There are a good many coming up this 
way, though but few have got thus far as yet. 
Some have gone above us, and are at work, and 
some have gone back not able to stand the press- 
ure of the hard work and high prices of goods. I 
think we shall make a good summer's work here, if 
we can get provisions, of which there is no doubt. 
We have brought along twine for making fish nets, 
and expect to catch plenty of salmon this summer, 
with these and some wild fruits we shall get along 
well if the mines do not disappoint us. The In- 
dians are not at all troublesome ; they are a better 
race than those further south, but we have seen but 
little of them as yet. They seem a little shy, 
especially the women. I have seen some of them 
have pieces of gold, but not to amount to anything. 
It is not wash gold, and must have come from dry 
diggings, or high on the banks. 

We found snow on our way up, about five or six 
inches deep at places on the trail, but it soon dis- 
appeared. There has been thick ice in the river, 
but it has now left and the weather is mild and 
pleasant; no stormy weather of any account since 
we left. The Indians say this has been a hard 
winter. From what I can learn, the summers hero 
are very warm and have seasonable rains. If so, 
I think plenty of vegetables could be ravsed, as the 
ground looks good. 

My advice to those in your State is, to ;emain 
where they are until this country is more explored 
and better roads are built to jget into it. J. M. D. 

The foregoing letter, as has been stated, is one of a 
number lately receied from the Upper Fraser, the tone 
of some of which is more encourag:ing, and of others less 
so, than that of the one here preeenrcd. this haTing been 
selected for publication because it fairly represents the 
average opinion of the whole, and because the writer is a 
candid man and an expsrienced miner, whose opinions 
are entitled to respect and credence. 



